Some of the nicest things about Japan are the traditions, many pertaining to showing respect. There are always exceptions to the rule, I'll be the first to admit that, but one such tradition is the group "Kampai" (cheers!).
A major rule when at any drinking party is that everyone waits until everyone has a drink, then, and only then, can EVERYONE raise glasses together and clink yelling Kampai. Then the floodgates are open and usually at least one person passes out and another turns bright red, it's always good comedy nonetheless.
Usually one doesn't have to wait very long for the entire party/group/table to get all of their drinks, so it's not a problem. I was witness to a glitch in the system though last night.
I was at an all-Japanese bonenkai (end of the year party). It also doubled as a pot-luck meal. The party was due to start at 6 at a friends house, and since things run on time in Japan, I was ready at 5:30 after rushing like mad all day long. I should add, I didn't know many of the people there. So there was alot of nervous tension. Think back to when you need to break the tension meeting some inlaws, or at a high school get together, you drink. Well the food is getting put down on the tables, and the 6 of us that had arrived on time were sitting on the floor patiently waiting for the last 4 to show up.
I should remind you. Nervous tension+Booze=Everyone becomes best Friends.
But we could'nt open our beers, because not everyone had arrived. So Ive got a magically chilled tall can of Suntory in front of me, but I can't touch it. And I've got a spread of food (shrimp, guacamole, hummus, chicken etc) all in front of me, but I can only smell and ooh/ahh at how good it looks (standard practice), I can't eat it. At 7pm 2 more showed up. Then at EIGHT pm the final 2 had arrived.
Ill remind you again, 2 hours, nervous tension, awkward broken Japanese small talk, and no booze or food. It was almost comical, watching the Japanese folk with me try to save face and deal with this delay properly and politely. There were alot of "tabetaiiiii's"(I want to eat that!) and "nomitaiiiii's" (I want to DRINK that!), and awkward glances at the clock. I was passing out beers to the other guys there within 42 seconds of the last 2 people showing up, and I'm pretty sure I saw tears of gratitude in their eyes, as the strain had gotten to them too.
3 seconds after that, a round of cans popped open and a loud KAMPAI was shouted before the boozing began in earnest, time check, 8:05pm. The nervous looking guy across from me killed his beer in two drinks, and suddenly he was at ease, joking, telling stories, giving me thumbs up, and asking for another rum/coke (I should add, I was the only one to bring a 26oz bottle of rum, they thought it was interesting to no end). The other guy who nervously sat by his wife earlier, suddenly was drinking rum on the rocks, spilling rice, and laughing away. He lasted exactly 2 hours then passed out flat on the living room floor. He was covered up and a pillow put under his head, and the party went on with a body next to the table. I thought of what would happen in Canada, maybe one of the jokers would take crude pictures, maybe another would draw lewd drawings with a marker on his cheek, someone would definitely put his hand in a warm glass of water and giggle hoping he'd piss his pants.
Things just carried right on, no problem. On one side of the room a god awful SMAP concert DVD played with one lady (superfan) singing along, then at 1am an inpromptu yoga session went on (no, I did not partake in this). Anything goes, once the kampai tension has been broken.
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Sunday, December 17, 2006
The Icy Season Begins
Well it's here, and I'm not talking about the festive season, the White Illumination on the streets, or the boozy Bonenkai (year end parties), it is...the icy season.
I've never known a place like this, for all the good things Sapporo has going for it, the winter is tough. The roads are generally unsalted, and the sidewalks 99% unshovelled or cleared. What you get is a narrow sidewalk lane where people have trampled the snow down into a packed uneven obstacle course in the end. As for the streets, they waver between bare, icy, bubbled ice, black ice, or snow lanes right now. For most people, it is 'shoganai', it cant be helped..but or a person who bikes and needs to commute for his sanity, it is the saddest time of the year.
To date I've managed to limit my hard crashes to two. The first when a taxi wasnt going to stop for me to bike across the intersection (which was green for ME to go through), the second being two days ago when I hit black ice at a red light and hit the ground on my hip and elbow, still clutching the handlebars it happened so fast. My post travel budget doesnt allow for $180 for 2 spike tires, so for now my thick mtb tires will have to do, along with a healthy dose of patience.
Soon though, the streets will get worse. The city's snowploughs wait for the first big pile of snow to get packed down into ice citywide, then they scrape the top layers off. Surely this makes sense in some office, somewhere. So it packs down, and the odd time that it melts a little, it refreezes into an uneven hell, unride-able to a bike tire. The sidewalk cleaning machines come through and move the snow to the side, creating the famous 'snow walls', and thereby creating equally famous 'blind corners' for the ever speeding drivers to fly into then skid and slide when a pedestrian makes them hit the holy shit brakes.
The Icy Season is here, but that also means the hills are getting filled up with deep powder, ready to get torn up over the holidays, if I have gear. Heres to starting the countdown til bike-able days again......
I've never known a place like this, for all the good things Sapporo has going for it, the winter is tough. The roads are generally unsalted, and the sidewalks 99% unshovelled or cleared. What you get is a narrow sidewalk lane where people have trampled the snow down into a packed uneven obstacle course in the end. As for the streets, they waver between bare, icy, bubbled ice, black ice, or snow lanes right now. For most people, it is 'shoganai', it cant be helped..but or a person who bikes and needs to commute for his sanity, it is the saddest time of the year.
To date I've managed to limit my hard crashes to two. The first when a taxi wasnt going to stop for me to bike across the intersection (which was green for ME to go through), the second being two days ago when I hit black ice at a red light and hit the ground on my hip and elbow, still clutching the handlebars it happened so fast. My post travel budget doesnt allow for $180 for 2 spike tires, so for now my thick mtb tires will have to do, along with a healthy dose of patience.
Soon though, the streets will get worse. The city's snowploughs wait for the first big pile of snow to get packed down into ice citywide, then they scrape the top layers off. Surely this makes sense in some office, somewhere. So it packs down, and the odd time that it melts a little, it refreezes into an uneven hell, unride-able to a bike tire. The sidewalk cleaning machines come through and move the snow to the side, creating the famous 'snow walls', and thereby creating equally famous 'blind corners' for the ever speeding drivers to fly into then skid and slide when a pedestrian makes them hit the holy shit brakes.
The Icy Season is here, but that also means the hills are getting filled up with deep powder, ready to get torn up over the holidays, if I have gear. Heres to starting the countdown til bike-able days again......
Thursday, December 07, 2006
Tibetan Shooting at Nangpa La
Hit on this link below to see the real footage from the shooting. It explains itself.
China's Got Issues
and the follow-up website
Shoot Me Too
China's Got Issues
and the follow-up website
Shoot Me Too
Friday, December 01, 2006
3 Years in Japan
I had just said goodbye to my Grandpa for the last time and was getting driven to Calgary by my Mom and sister, and I vividly recall thinking that 'its never going to be like this again'. The next morning I was to fly to Japan with no job, no apartment, and no real wad of savings to hold me over. I also knew no matter what I'd return eventually, but I'd be changed, and things back home inevitably would have changed too.
Everyone uses a 'milestone' of some sort to mark something, to grade progress, something to guage themselves and their life's path by. Some expat Gaijin in Japan use the 'Japanniversary' as exactly that.
It's hard to believe that it was 3 yrs ago, I can still remember the cold sweat as I landed at Tokyo. I remember seeing all the little workers in cute little worker outfits all dressed properly and bowing to the plane, each other, the baggage, and anything else they didnt feel the urge to offend at the moment. I was in a daze through security/immigration/customs, and suddenly I was in the arrivals meeting Nobuko (friend from Canada), who quickly guided me on how to work the Japan Rail ticket machines and gates. Then the culture shock hit...
I was on the train from Narita to Yokohama. I have no idea what train lines I took. I know I changed at least 3 times. It was hell. It was 5pm, the rush of salarymen and office ladies were being literally crushed INTO the train by the official 'train packers'. I had a seat, with my large backpack on my knees, and my forehead buried into it trying to block it out. I looked, rough. I had a nice clausterphobic crush and a slight panic attack thinking, 'if this is Japan Im not lasting a month'.
Living in a foreign country definitely takes some sacrifices. I hear it too often from old friends that "you're living the life" etc. No, I'm living my life, you're living yours. I made these choices, you made yours. To live abroad you have to uproot yourself. I was lucky enough to have almost no roots put down and could pick up and roll on, but its still a challenge, and its something that each gaijin in Japan shares.
You do miss out on things. You miss Christmas' with family, you miss your sisters birthday, you miss your brothers first house, your miss Grandpa and Grandma's funerals, you miss your friends, your friends weddings, your friends new babies. You miss the NHL Playoffs every April-June, you miss the glacier, the Rockies, you miss running with your buddies trading stories that get better and better with time, you miss a steak, a slurpee, and real bacon.
But there's alot to be gained from it as well, and alot of things you learn to love.
I saw my first talking/music playing toilet.
I also had to learn HOW to use the toilets.
I had to learn how to take an Onsen (communal bath/hot spring) and sit on the mini stool without falling off, and learned to love soaking next to a group of strangers in the same water. Although my initial shock was, 'I have to soak next to some old balls in the same pool?!'
I can have a pretty good conversation in Japanese with a 4 yr old nowadays, or a very simple one with an adult.
I can actually read what some 'squiggly things' (kanji) say and what those 'boxy things' (katakana) mean too.
I love the mini cans of Coke and Guarana, just the right amount of pop that you don't get bloated (about 1/8th the size of a SuperSize McDs Coke back home, which would put me in the hospital now).
I love coffee in a can now.
Even if its cold coffee.
I also love coffee ice bars.
I just realized I may consume as much coffee as my Dad now.
I managed to get over eating Sushi and even like it, a little.
I got to BBQ fresh squid and got over the 'grossness' of it to admit it was kinda, sorta, good.
I got used to playing hockey and bowing to the refs after the game even if they usually were shit. And won two city championships along the way.
I even led in goals, and of course, penalty minutes.
I helped get the Sapporo Terry Fox Run off the ground for 2 yrs with the help of an unreal group of supporters.
I ran 3 marathons in 3 yrs.
I ran my fastest half marathon, full marathon, and 10k in Japan.
I was able to feel comfortable in a room of 8 four year olds, some crying, some pissing themselves, and some staring at me trying to figure out why I had blue eyes, likes it some sort of affliction.
I managed to get so used to those four years olds that when I left them they were 6 and 7 yr olds and I actually missed them, alot.
I was able to save up enough to get half out of debt, and even take a dream trip through Tibet, Nepal, and Vietnam.
I even love the private karaoke boxes here (not for the songs, but for the drinks and good times)
I love the all you can eat and all you can drink set ups here.
I really love the fact you can sit outside in the part and sip a beer, and its not against the law, its not offending an overprotective civil rights group, you can just sit outside, and enjoy it.
And the snow in Hokkaido is the best in the world.
It turned out I lasted that first month, my travels around Japan, throughout Hokkaido, 3 (yes THREE) trips back home to Canada, a Christmas in Okinawa, and a bike ride through Tibet. What was a working holiday visa year (max one year mom, I swear) has turned into 3 today. It's easier to look back on 3 yrs not just for what you've done or what you've learned, but look back and imagine your life without the people you've met along the way, the good times had, and you'll find you can't imagine NOT having come to Japan. As long as you keep moving forward, life keeps up. If you're not moving forward, you're spinning your wheels (or pulling a 'smokeshow' if youre in my redneck hometown).
Cheers Japan, here's to the next three.
(kidding Mom, put the phone down)
Everyone uses a 'milestone' of some sort to mark something, to grade progress, something to guage themselves and their life's path by. Some expat Gaijin in Japan use the 'Japanniversary' as exactly that.
It's hard to believe that it was 3 yrs ago, I can still remember the cold sweat as I landed at Tokyo. I remember seeing all the little workers in cute little worker outfits all dressed properly and bowing to the plane, each other, the baggage, and anything else they didnt feel the urge to offend at the moment. I was in a daze through security/immigration/customs, and suddenly I was in the arrivals meeting Nobuko (friend from Canada), who quickly guided me on how to work the Japan Rail ticket machines and gates. Then the culture shock hit...
I was on the train from Narita to Yokohama. I have no idea what train lines I took. I know I changed at least 3 times. It was hell. It was 5pm, the rush of salarymen and office ladies were being literally crushed INTO the train by the official 'train packers'. I had a seat, with my large backpack on my knees, and my forehead buried into it trying to block it out. I looked, rough. I had a nice clausterphobic crush and a slight panic attack thinking, 'if this is Japan Im not lasting a month'.
Living in a foreign country definitely takes some sacrifices. I hear it too often from old friends that "you're living the life" etc. No, I'm living my life, you're living yours. I made these choices, you made yours. To live abroad you have to uproot yourself. I was lucky enough to have almost no roots put down and could pick up and roll on, but its still a challenge, and its something that each gaijin in Japan shares.
You do miss out on things. You miss Christmas' with family, you miss your sisters birthday, you miss your brothers first house, your miss Grandpa and Grandma's funerals, you miss your friends, your friends weddings, your friends new babies. You miss the NHL Playoffs every April-June, you miss the glacier, the Rockies, you miss running with your buddies trading stories that get better and better with time, you miss a steak, a slurpee, and real bacon.
But there's alot to be gained from it as well, and alot of things you learn to love.
I saw my first talking/music playing toilet.
I also had to learn HOW to use the toilets.
I had to learn how to take an Onsen (communal bath/hot spring) and sit on the mini stool without falling off, and learned to love soaking next to a group of strangers in the same water. Although my initial shock was, 'I have to soak next to some old balls in the same pool?!'
I can have a pretty good conversation in Japanese with a 4 yr old nowadays, or a very simple one with an adult.
I can actually read what some 'squiggly things' (kanji) say and what those 'boxy things' (katakana) mean too.
I love the mini cans of Coke and Guarana, just the right amount of pop that you don't get bloated (about 1/8th the size of a SuperSize McDs Coke back home, which would put me in the hospital now).
I love coffee in a can now.
Even if its cold coffee.
I also love coffee ice bars.
I just realized I may consume as much coffee as my Dad now.
I managed to get over eating Sushi and even like it, a little.
I got to BBQ fresh squid and got over the 'grossness' of it to admit it was kinda, sorta, good.
I got used to playing hockey and bowing to the refs after the game even if they usually were shit. And won two city championships along the way.
I even led in goals, and of course, penalty minutes.
I helped get the Sapporo Terry Fox Run off the ground for 2 yrs with the help of an unreal group of supporters.
I ran 3 marathons in 3 yrs.
I ran my fastest half marathon, full marathon, and 10k in Japan.
I was able to feel comfortable in a room of 8 four year olds, some crying, some pissing themselves, and some staring at me trying to figure out why I had blue eyes, likes it some sort of affliction.
I managed to get so used to those four years olds that when I left them they were 6 and 7 yr olds and I actually missed them, alot.
I was able to save up enough to get half out of debt, and even take a dream trip through Tibet, Nepal, and Vietnam.
I even love the private karaoke boxes here (not for the songs, but for the drinks and good times)
I love the all you can eat and all you can drink set ups here.
I really love the fact you can sit outside in the part and sip a beer, and its not against the law, its not offending an overprotective civil rights group, you can just sit outside, and enjoy it.
And the snow in Hokkaido is the best in the world.
It turned out I lasted that first month, my travels around Japan, throughout Hokkaido, 3 (yes THREE) trips back home to Canada, a Christmas in Okinawa, and a bike ride through Tibet. What was a working holiday visa year (max one year mom, I swear) has turned into 3 today. It's easier to look back on 3 yrs not just for what you've done or what you've learned, but look back and imagine your life without the people you've met along the way, the good times had, and you'll find you can't imagine NOT having come to Japan. As long as you keep moving forward, life keeps up. If you're not moving forward, you're spinning your wheels (or pulling a 'smokeshow' if youre in my redneck hometown).
Cheers Japan, here's to the next three.
(kidding Mom, put the phone down)
Saturday, November 18, 2006
Nov.16 Cu Chi Tunnels
The morning started off early as usual catching the bus off to the Cu Chi area. It was a joint 'Happy Tour' and TM Bros trip. The younger guide was only 22, but the older one (his big brother) was well over 50 and served with the South Vietnamese Army during the American War, alongside the Americans. He had a funny sense of humour, but I wonder how he really feels, guiding tourists back to the tunnels used by his former enemies.
There was a great set up throughout the jungle trail, showing the types of traps the Viet Cong used to use, they were just brutal traps, but I guess they accomplished the job. It couldve been worse, they couldve Napalmed entire villages of civilians and let Agent Orange linger and deform future populations. It makes the pitchfork leg breaking foot trap look like a happy ending compared to them.
There was an eerie feeling though, walking throught the Jungle, and actually hearing the gunshots and machine gun fire going off at the nearby rifle range. A few of us took some shots on the AK47, hopefully the only time in my life, super loud with a huge kickback into the shoulder. The tunnel itself has actually been widened for the 'big westerners', the originals are tight enough that even the small Vietnamese would have had to crawl through them snake like. As we descended some stairs then suddenly into the entrance of the tunnel, I had that cold sweat on again. The problem being a few others freaked out, and that worried me, if theyre in front of me in this tight little tunnel and they spaz out and need to get out, it gets ugly in there. I ducked in and started crawling but soon reversed out and had to take a few breathes and re assess. First of all, its the only time in my life Ill be here. Second of all, theres that macho thing to worry about. Third, suck it up. So I went in again and made it the whole 50metres (felt like 500). It weaved, went up, down.. but as soon as I saw that small exit on the left I bee lined it out of there, then realized my shirt was dripping with sweat worse than my office shirt in July.
Thursday, November 16, 2006
Sunday, November 12, 2006
Friday, November 10, 2006
Monday, November 06, 2006
Nov.4th - Halong Bay Kayak back to Hanoi
The last morning here on this private beach, everyone's feeling the same, we don't want to go yet. It's been so good to be away from all cars/motorbikes, streetstalls, noise... and be on this secluded beach with kayaks, huts, and a fridge of Tiger Beer.
The morning kayaking was good, if anything it was a bit too short. The cave we went into was only about 70m, a far cry from yesterdays nutshow in the cave. We paddled into some eerily quiet lagoons where you just lift your paddle out of the water and sit back and listen.
On the ride home, a really strange dude got into the van with our group, apparently he's with a different group sharing the way home.. anyways.. he was on SOMEthing. There really wasn't much going on upstairs, he mumbled a bit, then would rock out to himself, then pretended to punch the window because Jeff (who he hadnt met yet) didnt want to get out and have an ice cream. Just messed up.
Into Hanoi to pick up train tix, soak up some more of the Old Quarter, then jump on the train. Sharing the room is a couple from Germany, no idea of names, I only reconfirmed that noone loves beer as much as the Germans. He killed 2-3 cans of Heine then said goodnight and shut out the light.
Nov.3rd - In a Cave with the Tide Rising
Day 2 is our full day in the kayaks, complete with full caves etc. The morning was spent cruising into some quiet lagoons and enjoying the perfect weather while paddling around. For lunch we docked up against the boat and they served up a 'white fish' to us. Whats a white fish? I dont know, but thats what our guide called it. I thought Id give it a shot, until we noticed the GUTS still inside of it, normal in Asia, not so normal in Canada. I scraped some off and ate a bit of the fish meat anyways, and a bit of shrimp. After lunch we all jumped off the second deck of the boat into the ultra warm (and ultra salty) water. The SanFran couple took awhile to jump, until the guy nearly pushed her off, good times. Awesome swimming then lounging in the sun up on the deck again.
The afternoon though was ... interesting. We cruised to a small cave that you could barely notice, where our guide then greased the palms of some local 'environmental guards'. Duc tells us its a 200m narrow cave and we'll pop out at the other end. As we're paddling in, its getting darker, and musky, and Im getting that clausterphobic feeling. 140m in, and Im battling off wave after wave of panic attacks, and its narrowed to 2m wide. We've had to put all the paddles inside, and use our hands to steer/direct the kayaks holding onto the roof, which is about a foot above the kayak. Now Im leaning way wayyy back in the boat, my forehead is scraping the top, and even typing about it now has me breaking into a cold sweat. Like my Dad says, "why cant you be normal and take a vacation to Vegas??". With my headlamp I can see Duc (guide) in front but he's stuck, trying to literally push his kayak deeper into the water so he can squeeze onward.
Im not liking the looks of this. 
He gives us all a choice, we can get out and swim (but risk getting cut up on the floor and walls of the cave he adds after), or we can reverse and turn around. He assures us that the tide isnt coming up too fast, but I dont see "Tide Expert" across his forehead so Im all for getting the hell out of there, as was everyone else. The reverse was interesting, and once we were heading OUT it felt alot better. Showing impeccable timing, Duc then told us of the story of another kayaking company who lost 3 tourists in that cave last May when the tide came in and they were trapped. Lovely.
The Tiger beers around the beach bonfire went down smooooth after that.
Nov.2nd - Kayak Trip to Halong Bay
Up and on the way to Handspan's Office by 6 (six?!) am. The drive from Hanoi to Haphong was about 2 hours, and Duc the guide, told us all some stories. Theres Canadians, Dutch, and Americans on this trip, no Brits??
From Haphong we caught the boat for an hour to Cat Ba Island, then a 15 minute van ride, then a 45 minute boat ride to the Handspan Beach. Its a private beach (see pic above on the right), no roads to it, just on an isolated island. We grabbed a good lunch with yesterdays group then took off in the kayaks for 3-4 hours all afternoon. The typhoon that was supposed to come caused a few waves but thankfully it turned away far south of here. Went through some small caves, and to a quiet beach in Halong Bay where we had tea and apples (nice mix!) and chilled out a bit. Back at the Base Camp everyone had a great dinner and a few beers, then laid down on the beach. So good to be out of the city.
Oct.31st - Arrival in Vietnam
The flight was short and budget. Budget flights arent really that bad of a thing, as long as you can trust the plane (I know my Dad is shaking his head right now) and it gets you there on time. I went on Air Asia for $40, can you go wrong? Except they try to charge for water, all went fine.Immigration at Hanoi is a breeze too, only IF you have the paperwork done. I guess almost 3 yrs in J-land have done some good since Im organized with the paperwork (like my office super book).
There's a million motorbikes here. Actually maybe more. Motorbikes carrying families of 5, who needs a minivan or SUV?? Motorbikes carrying building supplies. Motorbikes carrying 3 dead pigs strapped on the back. Hanoi has a cool feel too it, and the lake in the center of town (Hoam Kiem) is nice, so is the Old Quarter nearby. Tons of shops, lots of energy. Crossing the street here is a nutshow though, its like a real life frogger game. You just have to walk into the madness of mopeds motorbikes taxis bicycles and cars coming straight at you, they usually turn (if they DIDNT turn would I be here writing this?). It all works out somehow, like all things in SE Asia, and the main thing is DONT HESITATE. If you freak out and start ziggin/zaggin you're going to the next one strapped to the motorbike.
Tonight I even caught the Water Puppets show. Supposedly world renowned, a 'must see'. It was pretty good, and impressive how the actors (puppet masters?) can control the puppets on the long pole while underwater.
Oct.30th - Bangkok Storage Day
It sucks to have to use a vacation day as an 'errand day', but this had to be done. In short order, I had to get rid of the beard, arrange laundry that can be done fast, lose said laundry, re-find said laundry, print off a map to the storage joint, beg taxis to take me there and not rip me off, wait a long time for a taxi to agree to a reasonable price, breath smog, store the bike/gear bag, kill a frappo from Starbucks and get a beer in me before I snapped.
Anyone who knows me, knows Im a bit of a freak about time. I love my time. Time is more valuable than almost anything save a signed Gretzky jersey. So a day like today had me sweating (Id sweat anyways) and running around like mad, but it had to be done, so like they say in Japan, shoganai.
24 hrs in Bangkok and Im ready to get out, heading to Hanoi, Vietnam in the morning.
Anyone who knows me, knows Im a bit of a freak about time. I love my time. Time is more valuable than almost anything save a signed Gretzky jersey. So a day like today had me sweating (Id sweat anyways) and running around like mad, but it had to be done, so like they say in Japan, shoganai.
24 hrs in Bangkok and Im ready to get out, heading to Hanoi, Vietnam in the morning.
Oct.29th - Nepal to Thailand
Waking up this morning, I felt like I was completely spent. Packing last night, I could barely hold my eyes open, and walking makes my achilles feel like its about to tear. Still though, feeling good from the whole ride.
3 riders are going to make the trip 30k down into Kathmandu (reaping the benefits of our brutal climb last night), since they dont fly out right away. Im definitely jealous, but what can you do?
Its the tour company's fault that we can't all make the entire trip, since they changed our China flight and told us about it with a week before arriving in Nepal.
A quick breakfast and some pics before heading onto the bus with Pema Sherpa. I couldnt even box my bike up (Makalu brought out a water soaked box from the 30's, I refused to use it). In the airport I tried to get a snickers and water (Im addicted to Snickers now, thanks Dr.Nick), but didnt have enough Rupees left.
The flight to Bangkok was fairly painless, and once again Thai Airways didnt charge any extra for my bike, so huge thanks to them for being one of the last 'bike friendly' airlines.
Bangkok hasn't changed a whole lot in the past 5 yrs since I first came here. Im staying in Sukhumvit area. Pretty much, its a white/western world transported into "Asia", this city. Everything and anything you want you can find. For some travellers that may be enough and just what they need actually, for others though its best to escape. By the way, the massive hamburger I had tonight was my first in a month and went down in less than 1 minute.
Tibet Day 15 Zangmhu to Dulikhel
Sat Oct 28 2006
98kms 5hours:34mins
98kms 5hours:34mins
Hungover (from 3 beers???), and super tired this morning. Felt like I barely slept in this hole of a hotel, really missing the tent.
We crossed the border, and then rode downhill for eight k of 'no mans land'. I cant believe it was 8k long, creeepy, and lots of people around the place, what country do they live in?? Had to say goodbye to Palden, our Tibetan guide, good guy.
Into Nepal, the Venezuelan team decided to roll off in teh jeep today since their time was tight. There was no way I was gonna miss this downhill though, not with all the climbing I did this trip. Also a part of me wanted to do the whole thing, unassisted, unaided, no vehicles, no holding onto trucks on the climbs, nothing but bike and on my own power.
The downhill RIPPED, so much fun. Bad luck struck team Venezuela though when their jeep broke down, and it turned out that they got to Kat alot later than us who rode, that sucks.
5 of us once again ended up riding together, and we turned it into a fun ride, adding sprint attacks, mountain climb challenges, you name it. Of course, it blew us up, but what is there to save it for?... a big fucking climb as it turned out later.
We did a bit of a pub crawl, but only Chris boozed, those Austrians love their booze. We inhaled junk food at a few villages, just because we can. Then the climb started, from Dologhat up to Dulikhel. It turned into a 37km climb. Fitting that our last climb was BRUTAL. It really did take a team to push each other up it though. We took a good Pepsi break, then pushed on. Chris and Terry put down punishing paces, and we all tried to gut out the last hard day. I couldnt believe the lactic acid in my legs, the dizziness, I was spent.. we got to the summit, the goal, the town of Dulhikel by sundown, spent.
Its a weird feeling, the end of a ride... the end of 2 months, 2400kms for me, from Japan to Tibet to Nepal. I couldnt pack up my bike, not just yet.
Our group had a final dinner, but people were actually falling asleep at the table, everyone is so tired. NOt sure how to sum up a trip like this, amazing, unforgettable.. It was easily the hardest thing Ive ever done, by far, the furthest Ive pushed myself. Now time for rehab and relaxing times in Nam on the beaches...
We crossed the border, and then rode downhill for eight k of 'no mans land'. I cant believe it was 8k long, creeepy, and lots of people around the place, what country do they live in?? Had to say goodbye to Palden, our Tibetan guide, good guy.
Into Nepal, the Venezuelan team decided to roll off in teh jeep today since their time was tight. There was no way I was gonna miss this downhill though, not with all the climbing I did this trip. Also a part of me wanted to do the whole thing, unassisted, unaided, no vehicles, no holding onto trucks on the climbs, nothing but bike and on my own power.
The downhill RIPPED, so much fun. Bad luck struck team Venezuela though when their jeep broke down, and it turned out that they got to Kat alot later than us who rode, that sucks.5 of us once again ended up riding together, and we turned it into a fun ride, adding sprint attacks, mountain climb challenges, you name it. Of course, it blew us up, but what is there to save it for?... a big fucking climb as it turned out later.
We did a bit of a pub crawl, but only Chris boozed, those Austrians love their booze. We inhaled junk food at a few villages, just because we can. Then the climb started, from Dologhat up to Dulikhel. It turned into a 37km climb. Fitting that our last climb was BRUTAL. It really did take a team to push each other up it though. We took a good Pepsi break, then pushed on. Chris and Terry put down punishing paces, and we all tried to gut out the last hard day. I couldnt believe the lactic acid in my legs, the dizziness, I was spent.. we got to the summit, the goal, the town of Dulhikel by sundown, spent.
Its a weird feeling, the end of a ride... the end of 2 months, 2400kms for me, from Japan to Tibet to Nepal. I couldnt pack up my bike, not just yet.Our group had a final dinner, but people were actually falling asleep at the table, everyone is so tired. NOt sure how to sum up a trip like this, amazing, unforgettable.. It was easily the hardest thing Ive ever done, by far, the furthest Ive pushed myself. Now time for rehab and relaxing times in Nam on the beaches...
Tibet Day 13 - Tingri to LaLung Pass
Thurs - Oct 26 - 2006 4300m-4800m
77kms Riding Time 5hours:27mins
The dogs were out in full force last night, the well known tibetan wild dogs who love to bark, fight, near tents. I still slept well, but many others didnt it turned out. As we started out on another frosty morning, the peaks of Everest and Cho Oyu sent us off. My achilles is at its worse today, stayed stiff and cold for at least 10k, and didnt get much better the whole day. I started dead last, and kept a slow steady pace, trying to get warm, but my feet were numb all morning til I massaged them to life at lunch. Eventually I joined up with Chris, Nick, Mike, and Terry and we rode in to lunch by 1130am for a siesta and food.
The afternoon ride from 1:15 went uphill, the whole way. LaLung Pass is a beast, over 5000metres yet again, but it couldnt be as bad as Lakpa the other day that broke my spirit completely. Decided to leave nothing in the tank today since tomorrow we were told is an 'easy' day, and the start of the ultimate downhill.
The pass turned out to be one of the toughest. The freezing headwind at times sucked, and a few false summits werent fun at all. Chris was the only one in front of me at his steady Jan Ullrich like pace, and I just kept my own pace. Unfortunately my gas ran out just before the summit, suddenly I became dizzy, a little disoriented, and swerved to a stop on the bank edge. Thankfully Dr.Nick was right behind me (note:always have a doctor riding behind you if you try to blow yourself up). He made sure I was good to go after a Snickers break. He swears that the two snicker diet is the way to go on this kindof trip, so Im taking his word for it. The downhill into our camp wasnt too long, but sweet nonetheless. We were all pretty blasted (4 of us, Terry was on his way though) by the time we got there for some Masala tea and crackers. Terry rolled in looking utterly screwed, and I remembered I had told him Id give him a Snickers bar today...but we hadnt ridden together it turned out. I forced one on him and he was revived in no time.
Its our last night camping tonight. The chef somehow made a massive thank you cake, its amazing the things that they can make here in their little cook tent. One last night in the tents, our tenth night camping in all. Not sure why, but Ill miss it.
77kms Riding Time 5hours:27mins
The dogs were out in full force last night, the well known tibetan wild dogs who love to bark, fight, near tents. I still slept well, but many others didnt it turned out. As we started out on another frosty morning, the peaks of Everest and Cho Oyu sent us off. My achilles is at its worse today, stayed stiff and cold for at least 10k, and didnt get much better the whole day. I started dead last, and kept a slow steady pace, trying to get warm, but my feet were numb all morning til I massaged them to life at lunch. Eventually I joined up with Chris, Nick, Mike, and Terry and we rode in to lunch by 1130am for a siesta and food.
The afternoon ride from 1:15 went uphill, the whole way. LaLung Pass is a beast, over 5000metres yet again, but it couldnt be as bad as Lakpa the other day that broke my spirit completely. Decided to leave nothing in the tank today since tomorrow we were told is an 'easy' day, and the start of the ultimate downhill.The pass turned out to be one of the toughest. The freezing headwind at times sucked, and a few false summits werent fun at all. Chris was the only one in front of me at his steady Jan Ullrich like pace, and I just kept my own pace. Unfortunately my gas ran out just before the summit, suddenly I became dizzy, a little disoriented, and swerved to a stop on the bank edge. Thankfully Dr.Nick was right behind me (note:always have a doctor riding behind you if you try to blow yourself up). He made sure I was good to go after a Snickers break. He swears that the two snicker diet is the way to go on this kindof trip, so Im taking his word for it. The downhill into our camp wasnt too long, but sweet nonetheless. We were all pretty blasted (4 of us, Terry was on his way though) by the time we got there for some Masala tea and crackers. Terry rolled in looking utterly screwed, and I remembered I had told him Id give him a Snickers bar today...but we hadnt ridden together it turned out. I forced one on him and he was revived in no time.
Its our last night camping tonight. The chef somehow made a massive thank you cake, its amazing the things that they can make here in their little cook tent. One last night in the tents, our tenth night camping in all. Not sure why, but Ill miss it.
Tibet Day 14 - Lalung Valley to Zanghmu border town
Fri Oct 27 2006
94kms Riding time 5hours:32mins
94kms Riding time 5hours:32mins
Well, the "Ultimate Downhill"...that light at the end of the tunnel for many of us, proved to be overhyped to start our day. It turned into the ultimate headwind...
The tents hit -21 last night, and it was tough to get things packed this morning in the cold when your fingers hurt. Our first contest is a little pass, rising not much, but steadily, for about 9k. That could mean 4 or 19k though. I started out, but within one k, my rear shock was dead flat out of air, and my shock pump was still on the bus back at camp. I waited, expecting the bus to be there shortly, while everyone continued on the climb. The bus took a full hour though. I got it set up then pushed to get up to the summit where some had waited for me thankfully. No time for a Mars, just a picture then get ripping.
The downhill from this point was pretty cool, lots of shortcuts and crazy trails. Mark duct-taped his video camera to his handlebar, catching some legendary footage of the downhill. The downhill lasted only an hour or so, and when we got to a small village a few of us had our brake pads changed (thanks to Mike). From there though, it was rough going for 20-30kms. The wind was just sapping our strength. Mike and I waited for Dil, our guide, but even he was beaten down by the wind and couldnt hold onto our backwheels, so he jumped on the bus. Mike and I stopped behind a massive boulder for lunch with some Belgian cyclists, then rode on, alternating with the headwind. Andres had a flat tire, his first, the lucky bastard. We got to the bus at a small village and ate a quick bite to eat before carrying on. I think a few of us (well me for sure) had poured it out yesterday, and had too high of expectations for this downhill promised to us on an 'easy' day. The road rolled up and down, and at one point I threw my bike down in disgust to sit down and recharge. Mark sat down and got me past my spaz moment. We made it to Nyalam, a shithole of a town, and from there it was actually a big big downhill.
But first I had a flat tire from a thumbtack picked up in Nyalam.
As I fixed it, a yak strolled right behind me, cool.
From there though, Mark and I cruised the downhill. Before we knew it, we were changing zones. What a contrast as we dropped a few thousand metres, suddenly it got warmer. We had started the day in full winter gear, now just shorts and tshirt. There was one point when I felt mist from a nearby waterfall and was shocked into realizing Id basically just left Tibet, instantly I missed it up there on the roof of the world. Mark pointed out that there were insects around too now, so many things, sights sounds and smells overloading the senses. We got to the border town of Zanghmu by 630pm, another full day, hard day. The town is sketchy, like all border towns tend to be, think Tijuana meets corrupt Chinese/Nepalese. ON top of all that, our hotel only would turn on the hot water from 930-1130pm, I thought the front desk was gonna get murdered, maybe he deserved it. So we went to dinner and celebrated with Lhasa Beers for a few hours, and showered later. One last day of riding left, too bad.
The tents hit -21 last night, and it was tough to get things packed this morning in the cold when your fingers hurt. Our first contest is a little pass, rising not much, but steadily, for about 9k. That could mean 4 or 19k though. I started out, but within one k, my rear shock was dead flat out of air, and my shock pump was still on the bus back at camp. I waited, expecting the bus to be there shortly, while everyone continued on the climb. The bus took a full hour though. I got it set up then pushed to get up to the summit where some had waited for me thankfully. No time for a Mars, just a picture then get ripping.
The downhill from this point was pretty cool, lots of shortcuts and crazy trails. Mark duct-taped his video camera to his handlebar, catching some legendary footage of the downhill. The downhill lasted only an hour or so, and when we got to a small village a few of us had our brake pads changed (thanks to Mike). From there though, it was rough going for 20-30kms. The wind was just sapping our strength. Mike and I waited for Dil, our guide, but even he was beaten down by the wind and couldnt hold onto our backwheels, so he jumped on the bus. Mike and I stopped behind a massive boulder for lunch with some Belgian cyclists, then rode on, alternating with the headwind. Andres had a flat tire, his first, the lucky bastard. We got to the bus at a small village and ate a quick bite to eat before carrying on. I think a few of us (well me for sure) had poured it out yesterday, and had too high of expectations for this downhill promised to us on an 'easy' day. The road rolled up and down, and at one point I threw my bike down in disgust to sit down and recharge. Mark sat down and got me past my spaz moment. We made it to Nyalam, a shithole of a town, and from there it was actually a big big downhill.
But first I had a flat tire from a thumbtack picked up in Nyalam.As I fixed it, a yak strolled right behind me, cool.
From there though, Mark and I cruised the downhill. Before we knew it, we were changing zones. What a contrast as we dropped a few thousand metres, suddenly it got warmer. We had started the day in full winter gear, now just shorts and tshirt. There was one point when I felt mist from a nearby waterfall and was shocked into realizing Id basically just left Tibet, instantly I missed it up there on the roof of the world. Mark pointed out that there were insects around too now, so many things, sights sounds and smells overloading the senses. We got to the border town of Zanghmu by 630pm, another full day, hard day. The town is sketchy, like all border towns tend to be, think Tijuana meets corrupt Chinese/Nepalese. ON top of all that, our hotel only would turn on the hot water from 930-1130pm, I thought the front desk was gonna get murdered, maybe he deserved it. So we went to dinner and celebrated with Lhasa Beers for a few hours, and showered later. One last day of riding left, too bad.
Tibet Day 12 -Rongbuk to Tingri
Weds Oct 25 - 2006
5000m to 4200m
83kms Riding Time 5hours:32mins
Frost lined the walls of the tent, and my contacts were frozen solid in their case. Pema had lied, it hit -27 last night.
The ride today was gonna be a battle, mainly to get started. Only four of us (nick, michel, chris, and I) are doing the first 17k, where upon terry mark and andres will join up, and the rest of the group will meet at lunch at about 42k.
It was FREEZING. My toes were numb, my fingers numb, my eyes watering and freezing tears. The 17k was downhill on the washboard, and we ripped it as fast as we could to get it done. We turned away at 17k, and up towards the pass. Its a beautiful valley, one of the nicest Ive seen ever. We passed the bus and truck a few times, and some of the kids in one village were ultra aggressive, even throwing stones at Chris. Thats not to say all kids are like that, but some believe now that foreigners=money/candy/pens.
Today Tibet really showed off for us though.. the bright sky, such a deep deep blue , the contrast with teh gray and brown of the lifeless hills, with the white capped glaciated peaks in the background forming the Himalaya. We all cruised to lunch, where a group of nomads sat near us and watched with interest, then feasted after on leftovers.
The afternoon ride was just....awesome. Crazy downhill to start where we hit 55kph on gravel/rock, then singletrack along a cliff edge. SO good, I dont even know how to explain it properly. The group even rode all together today, 13 riders, which doesnt happen often. One creek crossing was pretty tough, shoes/socks off wade across. A moron landcruiser slammed through the crossing just after us, as Michel was still putting his socks back on, and the water flooded his gloves that were on the side. He yelled at the guy, then kicked the back of his truck. The Chinese driver stopped, got out, looked at it, and then slowly, deliberately, picked his nose. Not a word spoken.
After reaching the town of Tingri we were thrown back in time again. A wild feel to the town again. Mark, Terry and I all stopped in a local joint/house for a coke. The last 10k or so was easy going, but everyones tired out, especially the few of us who rode the whole day. We barely made it before dinnertime, early sleep tonight holding my chronically cramped left hand. Even had heart pains today (prob just chest or muscle), and Oreo made me wear a moniter to watch it. Nothing serious, but maybe the altitude and long days of exertion are wearing on me. The summits of Everest and Cho Oyu were in view tonight, lit up with the Alpen glow.
5000m to 4200m
83kms Riding Time 5hours:32mins
Frost lined the walls of the tent, and my contacts were frozen solid in their case. Pema had lied, it hit -27 last night.The ride today was gonna be a battle, mainly to get started. Only four of us (nick, michel, chris, and I) are doing the first 17k, where upon terry mark and andres will join up, and the rest of the group will meet at lunch at about 42k.
It was FREEZING. My toes were numb, my fingers numb, my eyes watering and freezing tears. The 17k was downhill on the washboard, and we ripped it as fast as we could to get it done. We turned away at 17k, and up towards the pass. Its a beautiful valley, one of the nicest Ive seen ever. We passed the bus and truck a few times, and some of the kids in one village were ultra aggressive, even throwing stones at Chris. Thats not to say all kids are like that, but some believe now that foreigners=money/candy/pens.
Today Tibet really showed off for us though.. the bright sky, such a deep deep blue , the contrast with teh gray and brown of the lifeless hills, with the white capped glaciated peaks in the background forming the Himalaya. We all cruised to lunch, where a group of nomads sat near us and watched with interest, then feasted after on leftovers.The afternoon ride was just....awesome. Crazy downhill to start where we hit 55kph on gravel/rock, then singletrack along a cliff edge. SO good, I dont even know how to explain it properly. The group even rode all together today, 13 riders, which doesnt happen often. One creek crossing was pretty tough, shoes/socks off wade across. A moron landcruiser slammed through the crossing just after us, as Michel was still putting his socks back on, and the water flooded his gloves that were on the side. He yelled at the guy, then kicked the back of his truck. The Chinese driver stopped, got out, looked at it, and then slowly, deliberately, picked his nose. Not a word spoken.
After reaching the town of Tingri we were thrown back in time again. A wild feel to the town again. Mark, Terry and I all stopped in a local joint/house for a coke. The last 10k or so was easy going, but everyones tired out, especially the few of us who rode the whole day. We barely made it before dinnertime, early sleep tonight holding my chronically cramped left hand. Even had heart pains today (prob just chest or muscle), and Oreo made me wear a moniter to watch it. Nothing serious, but maybe the altitude and long days of exertion are wearing on me. The summits of Everest and Cho Oyu were in view tonight, lit up with the Alpen glow.
Photo Captions:
Top Left: Last goodbye, sunrise on Everest
Top Right: Yak
Pic 3: Group on the Pass' Summit, with random trader in there too.
Pic 4: Ullrich
Pic 5: Road ahead to Tingri
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