Chinese Military - Day 3

Nyemo to Jangdong (near Chinese Military Camp)... moved after 10pm to a Tibetan community 8kms away in the dark windstorm.

119km
RIDING TIME 6h:08mins

Another long day ahead, they told us today, Day 3, is the hardest one. The first 17k was cold and I had numb feet and frozen hands. Terry and I realized Mark was way at the back by himself so we waited for awhile for him to catch up. He's got a rough knee and is getting sick. Also, theres nothing worse than riding all alone with only the minibus behind you and the entire group up ahead of you.

The 3 of us rode on together and Terry and I literally pushed him up the rolling hills. At about 45 k though things went bad. First I got a flat on my front tire, which I changed pretty fast, no problem. Then Terrys tire went down. Then my back tire went down a few k later. I changed the tube but within one K it went down again! I was losing it, because I told Mark and Terry to head on up to the lunch spot, we all thought it was nearby , but it was actually at least 20 k away. I found a new tube in my bag and got my tire back rolling again, fighting the wind by myself. When I came around a corner, I saw Terry there, looking utterly deflated. HIS tire was down again. We fixed it up and then worked together fighting the headwind to get to the lunch spot at 67km. Because of all of our flats though, we were late getting there, and it was pretty well an "eat and get rolling" again.

Despite the heartburn and burps that inevitably come when you eat then push on like that, somehow Terry and I ended up at the front of the pack all afternoon. 4 of us shared the wind and we made some good time getting to the camp spot. Total for the day, 119kms!

I had a quick shower in the shower 'tent', where you basically pour warm water over your head and wash fast, then step out into thorns. A few Chinese military guys were wandering around on the other side of the creek, apparently their base is close by. It was beginning to get dark when a few more military men came over, questioining us, why we are so close to their base. Despite our guides pleas, they would show no reason. We had to move our camp. Imagine this, 14+ tents, 14 tourists, 6 staff, and its dark, all after having ridden the hardest day of the trip... They told us by 10pm we had to be out. A few of us helped to take down all the tents, while more and more military showed up and shone their flashlights around to make sure that we left. There were alot of bitter people.. all we were going to do was sleep for the next 12 hours and ride on, with their tiny training camp far off in the distance though, they would have nothing of the sort.

We had to crowd into the minibus and truck, drive 8k down the road to a small Tibetan community, where a nice older lady waved us towards a spot we could set up. The problem was the duststorm that was hitting, holding the tents down, fighting to put them up. It took a good 2 hours to finish it. Many people helped set up in the wild wind, while a few others hopped into a tent as soon as possible. Marks sounding rough tonight, dry cough and pretty pasty. He'll come around tomorrow though.

I guess we got a bit of a glimpse of how the Chinese govt and military works tonight, though admittedly, 1/1000th of how unfairly the Tibetans have been treated over the past 50-60 years. Theyve had their way of life change more in the past 50 years than probably in the previous 1000. There are paved roads all over here now, and they're creeping across Tibet like a virus. You think that its so the Tibtans can have more access? With their little wagons pulled by a donkey/horse, or broken down bikes? I dont even know if many own cars. Its so the military can keep a watch on everyonee, keep control, access more, extract more of TIBET'S resources, expand more, money money power power... I wont go off into my own diotribe right now because the computer is rough here... another time.

Kamba La Pass - Day 2

Kamba La Pass Climb Up, Then Down, Back Around and Over to Nyemo

95km Riding Time 6hrs

Being awaken at 7am by the Sherpa saying "good moooorning" and handing me a cup of black tea isn't so bad.

We were up and riding by 830am. Todays going to be a tough one. The first is a climb up Kamba La Pass. Our starting elevation is about 3600m, but the pass summit is 5000m! Imagine

climbing Mt.Athabasca, then biking up the same elevation from that top.

The climb was chilly, and slow going. I rode mostly on my own today and concentrated on keeping a pace and making it up in one piece. I ended up getting to the top 4th out of the 15 of us, but it really didn't matter, whether you fly up or take your time, you're going to be tired out. On the very top, theres an amazing view of Yamdruk tso lake, its an emerald green lake. Lots of tour buses around, noone can believe we just biked up. It took me about 3 hours just up. The lake view is worth it though, unfortunately the Chinese wisdom has recently been to start draining this sacred lake (the Tibetans believe a god lies within it, and wont fish/wash/shampoo/cook with the waters of it, leave it completely undisturbed), and using it for hydro electric energy that inevitably goes to Beijing, not to Lhasa, a well known fact here. What they didnt realize (or care about), is the lake isnt re filling. Its sinking, the shores are exposing themselves higher and higher, and parts of the lake are now seperated from the main body even. Within 7 yrs it is expected that the lake will be empty if nothing changes. My tibetan guide Palden thinks the pressure of the Chinese tourists, not the Tibetan voice, will eventually change their mind to save the lake.

The downhill was.... a screamer. 65kph at one point. It took only 30 minutes. Once back at camp we had lunch and then set off for the next part of the ride, a 45km jaunt. Everyone was getting pretty tired though, lacking energy after such a huge climb this morning. There were a few more flat tires today, and a bit of a head wind too. Eventually we found the camp set up by 730pm, a LONG day in the bike seat, just as it began to get dark. I ate as much as I could, but was just so sleepy. The stars here (we're camping at a place called Nyemo, pronounced NEMO), are like Ive never seen. Its amazing how they look when youre out of the city lights. I was out cold by 930 shivering in my down bag.... with the biggest day to come tomorrow still.

Pictures from Top to Bottom:

1-Terry and Marks artistic sunglass photo shoot.

2-Roy and Alene powering up the Pass

3-Spoke view of Yamdruk Tso.

4-Yamdruk Tso Lake from over 5000m.

In the distance is a 7000m mountain.

Leaving Lhasa - Day 1

Lhasa to the Foot of Kamba La Pass
88km Riding Time 4hrs:38mins

You could tell everyone in the group was dying to get moving and doing something, as we didnt hold a slow pace to start off our morning. All together there're 14 riders plus Dil our riding guide from Nepal, and Palden our Tibetan guide. The riders:
Myself, of course. Chris (Austria, also my roomate, 6'4" and flies), Mark and Terry (UK), Roy and Alene (UK, older couple with endurance to spare), Nick (radiologist from the UK), Mike (bike ninja from Holland), Francis (Switzerland), Santos (Brazil), and 4 guys from Venezuela, Honorio, Jorge, Andres, and Luis-Felipe.

The road is paved out this way, but noone really knows how far it is paved (within our group). Just a few years ago this was all a gravel road, but the Chinese quest to 'liberate' Tibet means paved roads for their blaring horns and army trucks to go through to wherever they see fit. The morning was a good ride, we arrived at the lunch spot by 130pm. Part of our tour package is a team of cooks and a sherpa even. It was a full spread of Nepalese and Tibetan food on the table and r-fuelled. Unfortunately, the spot we chose for lunch is full of these little thorns that puncture right into your tube usually with any pressure. There ended up being 11 flat tires today, 2 of them were mine, both front and back. We got to a bridge to cross the river, and the military was guarding it. Our Tibetan guide had already showed our permit so we could cross, then Chris asked if he can take photos, they said no. We get to the middle of the bridge and the Venezuelans yell "PHOTO TIME!". We all took a bunch before the guards got on the radios and started heading towards us. The villages we rode through are amazing, the houses are so old, with a small courtyard in the front (for livestock if any), and walls of mud, clay, rocks.. you name it.. straw even. Throngs of little Tibetan kids came out running out onto the side of the road to high five us. One group of 5 were a bit aggressive though asking me for money, so obviously some dipshit tourist had given out money before to these kids thinking he/she was doing a huge favour and helping them out, when in fact he was doing the opposite. The group of 5 started on me and Mark took a good picture of them chasing me down. The camp site was set up when we got there and we feasted on a nice dinner before crashing out by 930pm.

Finally Tibet

All those years ago, finally here I am in Tibet!

(to the left:The Potala Palace)
(below:The cleaning lady at Drepung Monastery)


The way to Lhasa from Kat was an ordeal to say the least, and took some serious haggling with the airlines...another time. Flying above the mountains was unreal, easily the best 1 hr flight Ive ever been on. I was changed seats (Thanks TEL!), and it ended up in my favour since I watched Mt Everest float right next to me on the left along with the other Himalayan giants. I couldnt stop watching it.

Entering Tibet, we were shuttled to a bank and then to our hotel. The terrain is amazing here, barren, with the tree line being non existant it seems. The air is thin, since it is 3500metres above sea level, or roughly the tops of most peaks in the Canadian Rockies.

Today we spent the day seeing the Potala, Drepung, and Barkhor Square. Great people, the Tibetans I mean. Beautiful clothes, hair, eyes, and their faith in their religion blows my mind. To even try to imagine 1/100th of what they have gone through the past 50 years, is impossible for my mind. And here they are, giving what little money and yak butter they have to the donation boxes in the monastery, smiling, and showing their faith in Buddhism and His Holiness to no end.

The bike trip finally starts tomorrow.. no real time to get into details so far with these two quick posts sorry. From tomorrow our group will be riding the 1000k to Kathmandu along the Friendship Road. Heres hoping the altitude sickness stays away and a strong healthy ride ahead for everyone.

Kathmandu Times and Himalayan Whitewater

The 3 flights werent all that bad, but being spread out left me tired out. In Seoul I found a great transit lounge to chill in.. once in Bangkok it was about midnight, and my flight the next morning not until 1030am. I didnt feel the need to go out on the town for a few hours so I chilled in the transit lounge, set up some couches and slept for a good 4 hours in the super A/C found only in Thai overnight buses and Japan 7-11's.

Coming into Nepal, it was beautiful. Apparently Mt Everest could be seen but not on my side of the plane. The hills and mountains are amazing though. I was in for a massive culture shock though once getting out of the airport (took 2 hours to pay for my visa, line ups and only 2 workers).
Porters pulling my bags from me, Nepalese and Indians yelling for taxi at me.. I found Mohan who loaded me into a van before some chubby dude whispered 'tips man you give me tips eh'.

Anyways, the first few days in Kathmandu were a bit of a blur.. the poverty surprised me. The narrow streets, the electrical wiring hanging haphazardly, and the touts and hawkers yelling to sell everything and anything. I hated it, walking down the street, having a guy working on you the whole way, like you're being hunted.

I spent one day up 1/2 way to Pokhara on a white water raft trip, no waivers in Nepal man! It was pretty nuts, Class 3+. The way home though I was on a public bus, the only white guy in sight, and sitting on the floor in the aisle since it was so packed. Most were on the roof holding on..and it took a full FIVE HOURS to get back.

By the 8th I met my group that Ill be biking with in Tibet. 14 of us in all. The group is pretty funny and everyone seems cool, 4 guys from Venezuela, a Brazilian, one from Holland, 5 Brits, a Swiss, an Austrian (my roomate), and me the only North American.

Kathmandu slowly grew on me, as I saw more and more of it outside of Thamel. The Monkey Temple, the Hindu Shrine and cremation river, Bouddha, and other places were great. China Air changed our flight to the 12th to Lhasa so we lost a day of acclimitizing...not good. Since we had that extra day in Nepal we spent it up in Nagarkot (after visiting Bhaktapur and Patan).
Like a friend told me, Kathmandu has a cool vibe once you can find it and it definitely grew on me, the great foods, bargaining in the street stalls, and people watching.

Off to Thailand, Nepal, Tibet, Vietnam

I'm heading out in less than 12 hrs on the first leg of the next journey. It's been a long long road to get here. I'm not complaining, I asked for this, I chose this. I've researched, battled for flights and prices, and today hit a few more roadblocks. It seems inter-Asia flights have a weight limit of only 20kgs for TOTAL luggage. Well weighing my bike and gear, came to 22kg, thats not including any clothes or sleeping bag, which all told brings the weight up to 39kg. So Im in for a battle and some begging at the airport tomorrow with Korean Air. From there, I'll arrive in Bangkok just before midnight at the brand new worlds largest airport. As its only been open a week, its still teething. Unfortunately for me who has a morning flight and doesnt want to go downtown Bangkok for a few hours, the day rooms to sleep/rest in arent finished yet. I did manage to find that self storage is available. I think I'm destined to be sleeping in the airport though for tomorrow night if it's possible. My flight to Nepal is the next morning, and then I have about a week in Nepal to do some rafting, biking, get used to the elevation, and just enjoy the trip finally. The past week I've done nothing but plan, pack, prepare, and not much else.

For any family members or friends who have just learned of this blog, please leave comments! Its easy, you dont need to sign up, you just can type in your name and leave a message. This will be the easiest way for me to keep in touch while travelling, but I'll try to get a few emails out once in awhile.

I've dreamt of seeing the Himalaya and Tibet for years now and can't wait to do it, by bike! Ive spent most of my savings on this trip, and will spend up to 800 more in luggage surcharges to get there and back possibly, but in the end, it's only money. When will I have this chance again? Not likely anytime soon, and with the Chinese paving roads like mad and putting train lines into Tibet, will it ever be the same again? And if you say, "you're so lucky", don't. Every lifestyle takes sacrifices and mine is no exception. Each person can choose and make their own destiny, it's just not always clear to them what they want or need. Tomorrow morning Ill be the one dragging my bike box 1k to the train station, up the stairs, and onto the airport.

Keep in touch everyone.

Day 14 - Hokkaido Ride - Back to Sapporo

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 25th, 2006

URAUSU to SAPPORO

72km 3h 23m

Well that's it that's all... I took a cruisy morning today, the last day of this great trip. I packed slowly, laying everything out. It was when I took my fly off, I saw him, Big Scary Spider was still with me! It had to be him, had I carried him for 80 from Mashike yesterday?? I shook him free. When I layed my gear out on a wooden plank, suddenly I saw an even sicker spider making a beeline for my sleeping bag. My insect understanding went out the window and I swung my sandal ending with a squishy crunchy sound, no more prisoners now boys.

Todays ride was actually my fastest speedwise, I kept a 21.3kph clip up even through the city. Entering Sapporo I was greeted with cars on the sidewalk, parking on the side of the road, and overgrown bike lanes. Not deterred, I rode on to Odori to meet some work buddies for some MacD's and a few tall cans. After begging my ex boss to let me go home rather than more tallies, I saw Yuki from Rishiri at Shugakuso. Had a good chat then I rolled home, as my odometer hit exactly 1000kms. What a trip... time to rest up and prep for Nepal, Tibet, Thailand and Vietnam now though.

RECAP: TOTALS for the Stats Geek in me. (yes, I used to keep road hockey stats)

1000.5kms covered. 55 hours.
KM TIME AVG MAX
Sept.12 51.2 2:58 17.2 44.8
Sept.13 107.1 6:08 17.4 48.5
Sept.14 67.8 3:42 18.2 45.6
Sept.15 114.6 5:25 21.1 49.8
Sept.16 38.4 2:24 15.8 47.8
Sept.17 42.2 2:47 15.1 55.1
Sept.18 86.3 4:27 19.3 47.8
Sept.19 18.0 1:29 12.1 51.4
Sept.20 38.5 2:07 18.1 50.6
Sept.21 94.2 5:18 17.7 44.8
Sept.22 86.0 4:08 20.8 47.8
Sept.23 101.5 5:29 18.4 48.5
Sept.24 82.5 4:44 17.4 55.1
Sept.25 72.2 3:23 21.3 37.3

Hokkaido Ride - Day 13 - Going Inland

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 24th, 2006

MASHIKE to URAUSU

83km 4h:44m

Im pretty sure most Japanese folk don't sleep in. Thats not a generalization, its a fact from what Ive seen. At 430am there were cars rolling around nearby and old men swinging their park golf drivers nearby. I headed out early too, killing down a 711 breakfast and coffee and heading inland on route 94. It climbed steadily through farmland until reaching the summit, Goryo Toge, and from there it was a plush downhill (hit 55KM/H) with no tunnels, perfect! These last 2 days Ive decided to ride further inland so as to avoid the tunnels that punished me my first two days of this ride. Fool me once....

I hit route 275 and barrelled on to Urausu town. I couldnt get my second wind today and felt low on energy throughout. The last few days have all been long, 94k, 86, 102, and todays 82. Thats 364k in only 4 days, time for testo patches. I got to Urausu amongst a festival like atmosphere. It wasnt a homecoming or welcoming parade for me, it was a Soba Noodle Festival. I tried to turn in toward the campground, happy to have made it and pretty tired out. A security / parking guard stopped me and said I couldnt enter until after 3pm because of the festival. Pardon? Its noon! I pleaded my case, but it was a no go. I had to vent alone for awhile to cool down, then decided to walk my bike down instead and told him I was just going to see the festival thats all. I brushed right by it, around the lake, and into the campground where many people were camping!! Parking my bike, I strolled into the registration office and signed up no problem! I realized there is another entry road to the campground, not just the festival side one, and the dipshit guard couldve very easily said, 'go up 150 metres and take that left, no problem', instead he was a robotic moron and couldnt function outside his parameters.

The Mefs came out to visit and we stuffed a few age-imos and beers down. The onsen was crowded and uncomfortable so I washed, quick soaked, and took off to eat my last box of KD on my last night here. As I was pouring my KD noodles into the boiling water, half of them suddenly spilled into the grass! With 007 like quickness I had the stove off, moved, and was cleaning noodles off in less than 10 seconds. Im not losing my last meal now, no way.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 12 - Camping Season Over?

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 23rd, 2006

SHOSANBETSU to MASHIKE

102km 5h:29m

Another slow morning enjoying the sun, and headed on the road by about 830am. I expected an easy day today, just 68kms to Obira where I camped last week. The ride was awesome, and I pushed a little hard just to get there early, onsen, then chill all afternoon. At the bottom of the hill to the campground, I climbed up hungrily. Its a sweaty hill, taking 15 minutes of granny gear spinning. At the top though, a sign, reading, the season is done, until next year. I run into this problem in Japan alot, being a foreigner, not in synch with the 'clock of the seasons' that all Japanese are inherently born with. For example, the days after Obon Holiday (mid August), I hear the radio announcer say "from today, its Autumn". What? Its 29 degrees and Im on a beach. Come Sept.23 when it really does become fall, no matter the weather, no matter the heat, many folks will change their wardrobes to their 'fall' or 'fall and winter' wardrobe, and you'll notice it is also 'boot' season.

Back to the ride, I decided to rock on to Mashike, 30k or so down the coastline. I set up in the park once I got there, pretty well exhausted. Cruised over for sunset and had a ramen and a beer while sitting on the beach. After that went in to the hotel for a riva discount onsen, and then back to the tent to cook dinner. There was a HUGE spider, here on known as Big Scary Spider, next to my tent spinning a web in the tree I may not have been able to break through. I let him be, and found his little brother inside the tent so had to flick him outside. I don't mind these ones, the tiny red miniscule ones are a bit creapy though...

Mashike

Hokkaido Ride - Day 11 - Flipping the Bird

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 22nd, 2006










HWY106 to SHOSANBETSU

86km 4h:08m

My roadside campout again gave me only a little sleep. At 4am the rain started so I packed up in the mens bathroom and was pedalling by 530am. The rain wasnt bad and after 25k it stopped. Hwy 106 didnt disappoint today, just a beautiful drive with Rishiri watching me from the right, but slowly fading into the back. I stopped for a great breakfast in Teshio in the sun, and chatted with a friendly old man out for a walk. The last few valleys were getting me tired. Then a semi truck buzzed me super close, sending me into a speed wobble and almost doing a header into the drop off ditch!! I don't snap much on a ride, but this asshole.... well I threw the bird up high and long so he'd see it in his mirror while he typed out a message on his cellphone and lit his 5th ciggy in the other hand, while 'driving'. Well wouldn't you know it, just then to my right is Sausage Man from last night waving at me holding his keitai, obviously having just taken a picture of me giving the bird, nice.

I set up at Shosanbetsu and headed for a long long long onsen. I chilled in the relax room again for a few hours and recharged everything. Just before sunset I cooked up some carbonera in a slight rain, then moved into my tent to eat. I treated myself to a can of beer, though spilled it twice inside. It'll just blend in with the smells the poor tarn2 has acquired...

Hokkaido Ride - Day 10 - Snotsicles

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21st, 2006

RISHIRI to WAKKANAI to CAPE SOYA back to WAKKANAI to HWY 106 RESTSTOP

94.2km 5h:18m riding time

Ever slept with a strobe light above you? I did last night. The coin laundry shelter, while being a haven from the wind and rain, also has a motion sensor controlled flourescent light system. If I layed as still as possible, then had to scratch my head, BOOM the light would come on. I was scared to turn over. In other news, the typhoon that has thrown up season high waves here actually took an abrupt and unexpected hard right turn over Hokkaido before hitting us here. It went over Asahikawa and on into the ocean.

Since we were packed up fully last night, the getaway was a breeze today. I was riding by 645am and the 15k to the terminal was actually a perfect wake up. On the ferry Yuki and I started to talk routes and look at the maps, but the sea had other ideas, rocking the ferry back and forth. For a guy who never saw the ocean until I won a free trip to Mexico when I was 22, the ocean still wigs me out fairly regularly. It must be the fear of the unknown, and especially the power the ocean wields. We slept on the floor for part of the 1h40m ferry trip, then said goodbyes from the dock. He had to go get a new rear tire put on his motorbike, the one he has has no rubber, no wire, no tread at all in some places, and he has duct taped a loop of tape around the tire to make it last a bit more.

I was full of optimism, and took off towards Cape Soya, Japans northernmost point. It was about 31kms to get there, and felt pretty smooth, a bit of a tailwind but lots of sun too. At Soya there werent many tourists either, since the wind had picked up considerably and was close to Fort Macleods "rip the car doors off" type of wind. I took a few pictures (like the one above) and turned right around, unable to even open my bag for a snack. The return to Wakkanai was.... easily the lowest point of the trip. The wind sapped everything from me. It was unrelenting, it was giving me a facial for 2 and a half hours steady. I could go perhaps 10km/h for long stretches, thats like a slow jog! I cursed, I stopped and dropped my head to my handlebar to contemplate why, and then Id look up the coastline and see how far it was to go still, and drop my head back down deflated. Im not exagerrating here, it was hell. I wished I had not chosen an out and back route today on a bike tour. I wished I was anywhere but here, stuck in a headwind, going towards a city (Wakkanai) that I don't care for whatsoever (from here on in it will be called ShitHole). The wind reminded me of growing up, of all the hats I lost to the wind in AB, and of the fact that wind is a big reason why I moved out of soutehrn AB. It saps your energy, no saps isnt the right word, it drains, it STEALS your energy. A hill, I can handle. A hill is a challenge, and at some point in your trip or your life, you can reap the benefits of that hillclimb by enjoying the downhill. A hillclimb is a metaphor for life. Then what is wind? I arrived at my beacon of hope, the Seicomart on the outskirts of Wakkanai and walked in broken down. I had snotsicles frozen all over my face and my cheeks were caked in salt from my sweat that insta-dried.

Re-nourished and re-charged, I decided I didn't want to climb that big hill up to ShinrinKoen (day 4 camp), because Id feel like I did nothing today but come across on the ferry. After a quick supply run I searched out route 106. When I crested a hill and saw ahead the islands of Rishiri and Rebun, and the ocean, I was stoked. From here, I knew there were no campgrounds within reach, and also that Id be pedalling a solid 100k and 10 hrs today, but I was so happy to be back on the coastline heading home. Route 106 is unreal, so beautiful. At 5pm I hit upon a rest stop with a sign pointing inland 9k to a campground. But my gas tank was empty, I knew I was roughing it in a parking lot again tonight, right here. Watched the sunset between Rishiri and Rebun (see pic below) and then talked with a 52 yr old Japanese guy from Sapporo. He showed me his entire cell phone photo collection. Weird? Yes. I don't mind talking with someone after pedalling so long alone. We chatted about photos and bikes for a good 45 minutes, then he said, "do you like sausage?". This may be a gay bar pickup line, I dont know, but then he pulled out a couple of freeze wrapped sausages (salami) and gave me some baby cheese to eat them with. I think he just wanted to talk to someone too, and to contribute somehow.

I set up my tent on the roof, a terraced deck. The wind had other ideas though and I had to set up next to a vending machine on the ground. Starving after the long brutal day, I curled up in a stairwell and fired up my stove to cook some curry and rice which took all of 30 seconds for me to inhale. Just exhausted...

Hokkaido Ride - Day 9 - Rishiri

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 20th, 2006

RISHIRI

39k 2h:07m


Ferries down and out today too! As they say in Japanese, "shoganai", loosely meaning "whatever happens happens, it can't be helped now". Alot of times in Japan it's used as excuse for a person apathy, but in situations like this, it's a great phrase.

I found internet for the first time this trip in the library, though my yahoo wouldnt open up, and it was one of those ultra secure connections that doesnt allow any outgoing info/mail/messages, only for reading and researching. Today was the Thailand military coup, so I was eager to find out some news if it'll affect my upcoming trip, as well as see if my travel agent had emailed. The computer network manager from upstairs understood my plight, and actually let me up into their OFFICE to check my mail so I could send a mail out! What generousity. Here I am, looking quite scrubby with a half beard and bike shorts, sitting amongst cubicles of salarymen, all trying to hide their curious looks at me. In the end, Yahoo still wouldn't open up, hence I've switched to gmail since. I felt sick after a few hours using the computer though, its been nice having so much time outdoors on this trip, rather than organizing, mailing, researching, planning...

The rest of the day was spent cruising up then back down the west side of the island. I went to the spring again to fill up my water bottle and camelbak, nice cold water. I came across this small shrine on the ocean cliffs below, during sunrise it must be so nice.

Yuki and I again are sleeping on the benches indoors as the typhoon is supposedly still coming, slowly. We packed up everything for a quick getaway in the morning to catch the first ferry.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 8 - Turning Gilligan

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19th, 2006

RISHIRI (Mikaeridai Koen)

18km 1h:29m

Two years ago today was the 1st Sapporo Terry Fox Run, seems like alot longer than that. I've had lots of time to reminisce, since I have slept perhaps 30minutes. Late last night, the rain became harder as the wind started bending my tent a few new ways. I've had my tent 11 yrs, a classic MEC Tarn 2 that rarely lets me down, but even I know that it's possible for it to snap a pole or rip open at any time. At 1am, I pulled an emergency E-vac. That probably sounds pretty extreme, but when you're shuttling your things from in your tent to the coin laundry shelter, then trying to unpeg your tent in the rain, while also having your tent NOT blow away...it sure felt extreme. I put it up next to the shelter a little out of the wind, but still couldn't sleep. I moved in to the shelter and decided if I can't climb Rishiri-Fuji (one of my goals I had in mind when planning the trip), then I might as well get back to the mainland and roll on, rather than be stuck on the island when the ferries stop. At 3am there I was doing what any bike touring camper does, laundry. I had to guess at a few of the machines kanji characters and play pictionary with the dryer, but it worked in the end. I have a deep down fear of dryers still though, since coming to Japan. I hate having my clothes shrunk. Hate it. When I visit Canada, I hang all my clothes unless I am sure they cant shrink. It was great to get 500kms of sweat finally washed out of my 2 shirts/2shorts/3 pairs of underwear/3pairs of socks. I boiled up some tea and a cup of corn soup and cleaned all the mold out of my camelbak spout and tube, the stuff that grows in there, sick!

I checked with the ferry and there was only one, and it just departed, with a mass exodus of tourists who feared like I did, of being stranded. Thus there I was, stranded with a day or twos fuel left for cooking, and basically a sitting duck while the typhoon slowly headed directly for the island. The day wasn't that bad, just super windy, but sunny. There's a viewpoint called MikaeruDai Koen, its 6k up the road, and 800m higher in elevation. I decided to give it a go and grunted up it. Beautiful view from the top, and its actually at Station 3 of 10 on the climbing route (alot of mountains in Japan are divided into 10's, for reference/scale while you're ascending). The ride down....COOKED. It was 50mins UP, and 10 mins DOWN.

The afternoon was spent hanging out reading on the deck watching some of the biggest waves I've ever seen come in, just massive! Even the locals were coming out to the coastline to see (and hear) them. Had another great onsen and talked to some funny local guys who figure it's Canadian beef that is powering me on the bike trips....what I'd do for an Alberta Steak... Yuki and I took the tents down and decided to sleep on the benches IN the coin laundry since the Typhoon was due at 3am (scheduled?..).

Hokkaido Ride - Day 7 - Lapping Rishiri Island

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18th, 2006

REBUN to RISHIRI

86.3km 4h:27m

Another early wake up, fully rested now. After inhaling a double egger I rolled the 6k to the ferry to catch a ride to Rishiri Island, just 19kms away. I chose the earlier ferry that went to the further port on purpose, since I thought I'd have time to bike the 15k to the other port where I'd be camping, KutsuGata. It ended up being somewhat pointless as I arrived at Kutsugata at the same time as the later ferry. After checking out some campsites, I decided on the one that is near the coastline, it has a shelter which may be useful in a storm (as well as coin laundry inside, its been 7 days of sweating with no washes....).

I talked to the Ferry Terminal lady who advised me of Typhoon 13 on its way towards us, maybe hitting by tomorrow or the next day! I decided right then to roll out and do my planned lap of Rishiri Island (58k) in case there was no chance of it tomorrow. The winds were crazy strong, and it wasn't altogether enjoyable. The light was bad for pics, and the wind sapped my energy. One thing Rishiri does very right, is taking care of its cycling road. They built 3-4 huge gap spanning bridges solely for the use of cyclists!! We're talking 60m high here. To get to it though was a climb at 14% slope, but once cruising through the trees its amazing. At 80k I was powered out and had to stop for a powergel and water break behind a wind break. Arriving back at the campsite I saw Yuki (met him on Rebun at Kushuko) from Tokyo, only two of us camping here! Had my first onsen and bath in 4 days, had to peel the dirt off! KD for dinner which he wasn't too fond of, more for me I guess. Got into the tent at 10pm, which is when the rain started.....

Hokkaido Ride Day 6 - Rebun Island

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 17th, 2006

REBUN ISLAND

42.2km 2h:47m

Ahh the long awaited 'easy' island days are here finally. I slept in a bit and cooked up a mean egg sandwich and sipped coffee while reading after. By around 1030am I was packed up having decided to give the islands other campsite a try. While giving my trailer pins and QR's another once-over, I could feel I had a pinch in my sock, or a bunched up part. Might as well fix it now before I get pedalling, I take my bike shoe off and realize my sock is fine, just as a huge beetle (looked like Mushiking!) parachutes out of my shoe and scurries off. Wonder how long he'd have lasted if I'd left him under my big toe.

I'm realizing that I'm far more used to bugs after a week of camping. I have managed to NOT kill a single one so far. No I'm not turning into a devout Buddhist, but this is their territory. I'm sleeping in the grass/dirt, which is their home. Even if they get in my tent, I just get them back outside. So far Im being tolerant, we'll see how long that lasts. Crows on the other hand, they're like rats with wings. It doesn't help that kids throw scraps of food for them, and they have been stalking me down at each camp. I barely left my dinner tonight to wash something and one was swooping in already. That said, I give crows full credit as they're definitely at least twice as smart as most Granum folk.

I biked to the northern tip of Rebun, the tourist sight called Cape Scoton. It's a main sight for any bus tourists on the island, complete with the group photo bleachers and 5 minute photo stop. Back along the main road, I decided to head across to Nishi Ue Domari. It was a grunt of a climb, then a swift down to a small fishing village. The lookout from above was beautiful (see picture above). Once back on the main road I stuck to the coastline heading back south towards the ferry (and tonight's camp). I took some side roads through old seemingly deserted towns, but just when you'd think a house was abandoned, someone would walk past the window or come out of the front door. I saw old men and ladies laying out todays kelp on the rocks to dry. I loved making eye contact with a few of those old guys, because just for that one second they're looking into your life and trying to figure out what you're about and what you're doing, and at the same time I'm thinking the same thing.

I arrived at the campsite by 3 and set up right away. This camp has the wooden platforms which gives a better shot at a level sleep, but the downfall is you can lose things in between the 2x4's, which Im prone to do. Sure enough, just as I was lifting my biking shoes to move them out of the way, they caught on that pain in the ass PIN from my trailer (the all important one that I can not lose). I heard it catch and go up in the air, but couldn't see it. Then listened to it rattle between to boards and fall to the ground, with no idea exactly where at. I crawled under the foot and a half crawl space trying to find it to no avail. I had to give up after the worms and spiders crawling around with me were getting edgy.

The spot was perfect, leaning back with a great meal of potatoes and pasta, and sipping a tall Asahi.



Tugboat working hard at the NE coast of Rebun.