Free-Wheeling

Kurodake pt iii

2007-06-07T19:26:00.001-07:00

APRIL 22nd, 2007

KURODAKE

Off to "Black Mountain" after a night of Wrestlemania festivities. I love that I'm 30 yrs old now but I can still do this crap.

Worst Day Ever - Niseko

2007-06-07T19:06:00.000-07:00

March 26th, 2007

NISEKO

This is one main thing that really turns me off about Niseko, the weather. You can drive out for 3 hours and arrive only to have nearly the entire mountain shut down due to winds, then what are your options? Suck it up and ride the ice, or drive back. It's a hit and miss resort area, so for someone who has a week vacation planned there it's allright, because there's a good chance that you'll have at least one near epic day.

I drove out Terry and Jen the night before, and as is usually (always) the case with me, I got lost. Somehow found 2 dead ends and one wrong road before finally arriving at their hotel after 3 1/2 hrs of driving. The next morning it sounded like hard rain outside, but it was actually just melt, and wind. Adopting the "shoganai" attitude, and this being the only day we could ride together, we went for it. 4g for the lift ticket, and we got maybe 3 hrs of runs out of it. The only open area for us was the bottom 1/3 of Annupuri, so like the title says, worst day ever. Being spoiled here in Hokkaido with the deep snow, I'm not so into having to ride the ice like today, scrape out a turn, hold onto a tree in the wind, and curse the weather gods. On the bright side, I did find a pair of abandoned bling goggles in a gulley, so at least I made some money back on the lift ticket.

Off to an onsen afterwards, and apparantly miscommunicated with the front desk about it being seperate bath or mixed. Never having been in a mixed bath, I didnt want my friends first ever onsen to be co-ed and awkward. Sure enough though, as T and I sit down to crack a tin we look over to see a granny soaking a few metres away....

Kiroro's Face Shots

2007-03-19T18:42:00.000-07:00

MONDAY, MARCH 19th, 2007

KIRORO SNOW WORLD

JJ talked me into making the Monday bus trip and full day out to Kiroro. This season we've had nothing but great days out here, and with snow all day Sunday we knew it would be good. Weekdays on ski hills in Japan are great, especially in mid to late March, when many people consider it "spring time". This label doesnt work here in Hokkaido, as Spring doesnt really hit until May here, whereas its warming up now already in Osaka and Tokyo.

My penchant for cutting things as close as possible almost made this day not happen. I was on the subway by 753, changed trains, got to Sapp Station, ran with a board on my back to the JR ticket counter, argued that he was mistakenly overcharging me, then ran to the bus stop by 808, bus leaves at 810am! I only sweat for the first 10 minutes of the bus ride, then life was good. The deal is only 5300yen ($55), includes 90 minute bus ride there and back, full day lift ticket, and a hot spring after.

Kiroro didnt disappoint yet again. There were a few Irish folk with us as well as JJ's GF. The Irish guys were just happy to have a little snow on the groomers, and when we pulled Ed into the trees for the deep stuff he was overwhelmed. Once again we stayed at the Nakamine area of Kiroro exclusively. The tree runs along the runs A, B, and C (original titles I know) were all stellar, but we soon couldnt hold off any longer and had to go into "the stash". We thought of alot cruder names for it last time with Sherri, but they can't be typed here. We rode from 1015 right until 430pm, and probably couldve spent another 2 full hours finding more and more untracked lines, there was that much.

The last run was the one though, the one where you can lean onto your back leg and just surf through perfect powder. Its our 'ski-out' route dropping down onto the wave course, and the perfect ending to the day. Actually the best thing after a full on day like this, is the onsen after, having a nice long hot soak, then a beer on the bus ride home while nodding off... solid day.

Teine's Deep and Steeps

2007-03-19T18:19:00.000-07:00

THURSDAY, MARCH 15th, 2007

TEINE HIGHLAND

The snow has come back to this part of the world, and FF convinced me to make use of it. Hokkaido's snow in March can range from dry/perfect snow, to wet-unstable-layered snow, to rain falling and just drenching you before you can even find out the snow quality.

Up at 6am to dig out the Civic, then get my gear all strapped on, then pick up FF at the subway. We actually made it to Teine in pretty good time, by 910. Unfortunately, the ropeway still wasnt running. No reason was given, it wasn't the wind (it was almost non existant), but may have been too much snow at the top. The ropeway is getting pretty old, and there are times when the car gets to the top station where it drags against the snowbanks.

FF is still getting his bearings on the sticks so he bolted off to hit the groomers which were pretty good today too. I met a guy named Jerry from the UK and we ended up riding together for a few hours, turns out we have a mutual friend who used to live here. Good guy, showed me a lot of stashes on the hill. There was so much snow today, couldnt really go wrong. When the ropeway did open at 11, we bombed through the bowls but with 10-15 Gaijin on the hill it only took 15 minutes for it to be pretty run over.

The 4 hours pass(at about $36 is both a great deal and a great idea) ran out by 115. Just perfect to tire yourself out for 4 hours, rather than like in Canada, where you can either pay $80 for a full day, or $60 for a half day starting at 1pm when all the soft snow is long gone... I dropped Double F at his nearby station and he dropped his garbage into my car, nice guy that kid. Drove up to Otaru to my classrooms and a two hour company parking spot treasure hunt, before 3 classes of parent observations. At least it was a good morning....

AsahiDake

2007-02-27T21:12:00.000-08:00

What a weekend yet again, up in the 'Kawa.

After lugging my boarding gear and avy gear through two subways and a mob of muppets to get to the bus stop at Sapporo station.... I missed it by 10 seconds.
I rushed up to the vending machine to buy my bus ticket (yes, everything you must buy at a vending machine, dont ask questions, this is good system yes?), and it took awhile to process, causing me to miss it by seconds. The next one isnt for 30 minutes. Well, the Bus Helper Man agreed to let me leave my gear nearby while I fetched some food.

As I get back up for the 630 bus, I realize that I have no idea where that bus ticket went after I purchased it. Its gone, vanished. I question whether or not I actually pulled it out of the machine in my haste. So I pleaded my case to deaf ears, first to the Bus Helper Guy, then to the Robotic Window Mic Lady. The Guy told me just get on the bus and look for it on there. I took his advice, but when I got to the Kawa 2hrs later, I still hadnt found it. I fair and square paid for that ticket, and was ripping NOBODY off, but the bus driver and his offloader chased me down and demanded an extra $20. I objected, bowed, bowed deeper, apologized, and believed that by being honest I would be ok. After a tense 10 minutes where I pretended to have no idea what they were saying in Japanese and pleading, they grunted and turned away.

The rest of the evening turned into a blur, booze and catching up with the rest of the BK. We entered the twilight zone though later on, around 1am when walking to the Den. A random drunk(was he?) disturbed man was yelling obscenities to us in Japanese, then mumbling, then blocking our path even. In the end a soft shove dropped him and we ignored him the rest of the walk down the center street. We could hear him yelling still.... it turns out though, that the yells were actually at our other friend who was walking 2 blocks behind us, and the disturbed man actually pulled a pocket knife out on our friend! Thankfully he was ok and escaped..

Well onto the riding. We got out to Asahidake by 9 or 10, but the ropeway was closed due to high winds. Adake is the highest mountain (and an active volcano) in all of Hokkaido. It gets some very harsh weather. We hiked up a ridge to play a little, then checked in again... by noon the ropeway opened and we were on our way. From the top, we hiked up and to the right to get to one of a few great (but dangerous) avalanche bowls. Most of us were at least equipped with the gear, and had transceivers all on and working. The ride was amazing, deep turns, soft, and lots of room to open it up a bit. We rode the lift up one more time and hiked up to the next bowl for our last run, and it didnt disappoint either.

The afternoon I had planned to rip back to the city for hockey, but instead ended up visiting my buddy with a busted femur for 5 hrs or so, then caught the train back, home by 11pm. Even the train ride was a pain, with old couples sprawled out taking up double the seats until I dropped the hammer on that plan.

Unfortunately had to cancel on my Monday plans with some friends, but I was mentally and physically tired and starting to get sick... full on weekend.

Kiroros stash

2007-02-27T21:11:00.001-08:00

Kiroro is usually known as being 'flat', but this season it's been one of my favourites. Took the great bus deal out there (includes the bus there, full day lift ticket, onsen after, and bus ride home where you can fal asleep) a few mondays this season with JJ and Hardcore. HC provided some classic falls and turtle like stuck moments, while JJ did his best tree dodging impressions.

We did find one amazing stash of powder (am I going to reveal it here? hell no) that we repeatedly raped (its just a phrase) over and over. Amazing snow, great tree run galore. For the final run of the day JJ and I pulled a traverse over to some uncharted territory and found THE exit run of the year.

All told, amazing days out there and a great onsen to top it off every time!

Kamui Shiri Dake

2007-02-09T07:40:00.000-08:00

FEBRUARY 4th, 2007

KAMUI SHIRI DAKE

Today was a day out with the "hard core old timers" hiking group in Asahikawa. They're a group of very active 40-60 somethings who are weekend warriors, regardless of the challenge or the weather. Some of my trips with them the past 3 years have been up Tomuraushi Dake, Asahidake, SandanYama, Tokachi Dake, Yotei Zan, and today we were slated to go up a lesser "hill", Kamui Shiri Dake.

The group was HUGE today, 17 in all I think. I was the only foreigner again, but its good practice for Japanese. Its also good practice for my second hand smoking, since most puff on 3 dollar packs of Lucky Strike at any break or slowdown. The hike up wasnt bad, only about 2 hours (less). I hiked near the back with the other snowshoers, Yokota-san and Yamaguchi-san.. It seems the 3 of us end up hiking together whether its summer or winter.

Once we reached the summit (I think it was a paltry 600m), we all set to work on a massive bench/long table for the lunch break. Its almost comical how much food they always bring, as well as sake and beers. Today though the other 'younger' guy An-chan invited me to do some avalanche tests for practice. We dug a few snow pits and it seemed not bad, as far as stability goes. Anchan, myself, and 3 others boarded down that back valley, foregoing on the lunch. There were a few decent turns there, then we had to hike back. I went ahead then stopped, thinking they could easily see my prints in the deep snow on a clear day like today. But it took awhile before Anchan showed. While we waited for the group, he hid his avalanche transceiver and then yelled "go!" so I could perform a few mock searches with my own. I was pretty lucky today and had them out in 30s or less.

Just as we were about to reap the benefits of our climb up in the nice untouched powder, the roar of 10 snowmobiles overtook us and in an instant they were next to us, as we strapped in preparing to go. Without even a nod, bow, hello, or anything, they tore off ruining our one powder line that we had HIKED up! Poor etiquette... as they had been flying around the other mountain sides all day (we could hear it, noise pollution). There was plenty of snow for them, but they decided to shred ours up without a hint of concern.

The ride down then was less than thrilling, but not bad. Our mini groups stubborn leader, the Keebler Elf, took us down too far and almost got us lost by following those same snowmobilers tracks. Thankfully we turned back when we did...and then I saw the proper trail after about 25 minutes of hiking.

Afterwards a nice long onsen, then over to the house for some beers and photo exchanges..

Throwing Peanuts at the Devil

2007-02-09T07:36:00.002-08:00

SetsuBun

February 3rd, 2007

They call it "Setsu-bun". By "they", I mean Japanese folk. It's a tradition, like so many others, that has a few strict rituals.

The word actually means "the division of the seasons", but it generally refers to this day, the "coming of spring", although I see a LOT of snow on the ground and ice on the steets, leading me to believe its not quite spring yet.

Around this time you can see many bags of peanuts, adorned with an Oni Mask (devil / demon). This being the year of the Pig (or boar), 2007, the person who is born of the same sign is the designated Oni that day, and had to face the others while wearing the devils mask. The rest of the group then starts throwing peanuts (the kind in the shell by the way) at the Devil, ridding the evils of last year, as well as the disease-bringing evils of the coming year. This can go on for quite awhile (the peanut throwing) depending on how much was purchased... I can only imagine this back in Canada, people would be getting bruised up and losing eyes. It doesnt have to be peanuts, traditionally I think that it was beans/mame. While throwing at the Devil/Demon/Ogre/Evil Spirit, everyone chants Go Away Evil Spirit, Come in Happiness (in Japanese).

Teine

2007-02-09T07:32:00.000-08:00

January 3rd, 2007.

TEINE Highland.

Hit up Teine with Jim, he just got back from Hong Kong late last night but was primed to hit the slopes. The conditions are still pretty choppy with not alot of new powder. Add to the fact that the locals have managed to gouge out the main bowls in the out-of-bounds area, there wasn't alot left. Either way it wasn't too icy and good to get out for 5hrs of riding.

Kampai Tension

2006-12-24T07:19:00.000-08:00

Some of the nicest things about Japan are the traditions, many pertaining to showing respect. There are always exceptions to the rule, I'll be the first to admit that, but one such tradition is the group "Kampai" (cheers!).

A major rule when at any drinking party is that everyone waits until everyone has a drink, then, and only then, can EVERYONE raise glasses together and clink yelling Kampai. Then the floodgates are open and usually at least one person passes out and another turns bright red, it's always good comedy nonetheless.

Usually one doesn't have to wait very long for the entire party/group/table to get all of their drinks, so it's not a problem. I was witness to a glitch in the system though last night.

I was at an all-Japanese bonenkai (end of the year party). It also doubled as a pot-luck meal. The party was due to start at 6 at a friends house, and since things run on time in Japan, I was ready at 5:30 after rushing like mad all day long. I should add, I didn't know many of the people there. So there was alot of nervous tension. Think back to when you need to break the tension meeting some inlaws, or at a high school get together, you drink. Well the food is getting put down on the tables, and the 6 of us that had arrived on time were sitting on the floor patiently waiting for the last 4 to show up.

I should remind you. Nervous tension+Booze=Everyone becomes best Friends.

But we could'nt open our beers, because not everyone had arrived. So Ive got a magically chilled tall can of Suntory in front of me, but I can't touch it. And I've got a spread of food (shrimp, guacamole, hummus, chicken etc) all in front of me, but I can only smell and ooh/ahh at how good it looks (standard practice), I can't eat it. At 7pm 2 more showed up. Then at EIGHT pm the final 2 had arrived.

Ill remind you again, 2 hours, nervous tension, awkward broken Japanese small talk, and no booze or food. It was almost comical, watching the Japanese folk with me try to save face and deal with this delay properly and politely. There were alot of "tabetaiiiii's"(I want to eat that!) and "nomitaiiiii's" (I want to DRINK that!), and awkward glances at the clock. I was passing out beers to the other guys there within 42 seconds of the last 2 people showing up, and I'm pretty sure I saw tears of gratitude in their eyes, as the strain had gotten to them too.

3 seconds after that, a round of cans popped open and a loud KAMPAI was shouted before the boozing began in earnest, time check, 8:05pm. The nervous looking guy across from me killed his beer in two drinks, and suddenly he was at ease, joking, telling stories, giving me thumbs up, and asking for another rum/coke (I should add, I was the only one to bring a 26oz bottle of rum, they thought it was interesting to no end). The other guy who nervously sat by his wife earlier, suddenly was drinking rum on the rocks, spilling rice, and laughing away. He lasted exactly 2 hours then passed out flat on the living room floor. He was covered up and a pillow put under his head, and the party went on with a body next to the table. I thought of what would happen in Canada, maybe one of the jokers would take crude pictures, maybe another would draw lewd drawings with a marker on his cheek, someone would definitely put his hand in a warm glass of water and giggle hoping he'd piss his pants.

Things just carried right on, no problem. On one side of the room a god awful SMAP concert DVD played with one lady (superfan) singing along, then at 1am an inpromptu yoga session went on (no, I did not partake in this). Anything goes, once the kampai tension has been broken.

The Icy Season Begins

2006-12-17T05:16:00.000-08:00

Well it's here, and I'm not talking about the festive season, the White Illumination on the streets, or the boozy Bonenkai (year end parties), it is...the icy season.

I've never known a place like this, for all the good things Sapporo has going for it, the winter is tough. The roads are generally unsalted, and the sidewalks 99% unshovelled or cleared. What you get is a narrow sidewalk lane where people have trampled the snow down into a packed uneven obstacle course in the end. As for the streets, they waver between bare, icy, bubbled ice, black ice, or snow lanes right now. For most people, it is 'shoganai', it cant be helped..but or a person who bikes and needs to commute for his sanity, it is the saddest time of the year.

To date I've managed to limit my hard crashes to two. The first when a taxi wasnt going to stop for me to bike across the intersection (which was green for ME to go through), the second being two days ago when I hit black ice at a red light and hit the ground on my hip and elbow, still clutching the handlebars it happened so fast. My post travel budget doesnt allow for $180 for 2 spike tires, so for now my thick mtb tires will have to do, along with a healthy dose of patience.

Soon though, the streets will get worse. The city's snowploughs wait for the first big pile of snow to get packed down into ice citywide, then they scrape the top layers off. Surely this makes sense in some office, somewhere. So it packs down, and the odd time that it melts a little, it refreezes into an uneven hell, unride-able to a bike tire. The sidewalk cleaning machines come through and move the snow to the side, creating the famous 'snow walls', and thereby creating equally famous 'blind corners' for the ever speeding drivers to fly into then skid and slide when a pedestrian makes them hit the holy shit brakes.

The Icy Season is here, but that also means the hills are getting filled up with deep powder, ready to get torn up over the holidays, if I have gear. Heres to starting the countdown til bike-able days again......

Tibetan Shooting at Nangpa La

2006-12-07T07:31:00.000-08:00

Hit on this link below to see the real footage from the shooting. It explains itself.

China's Got Issues

and the follow-up website

Shoot Me Too

3 Years in Japan

2006-12-01T06:36:00.000-08:00

I had just said goodbye to my Grandpa for the last time and was getting driven to Calgary by my Mom and sister, and I vividly recall thinking that 'its never going to be like this again'. The next morning I was to fly to Japan with no job, no apartment, and no real wad of savings to hold me over. I also knew no matter what I'd return eventually, but I'd be changed, and things back home inevitably would have changed too.

Everyone uses a 'milestone' of some sort to mark something, to grade progress, something to guage themselves and their life's path by. Some expat Gaijin in Japan use the 'Japanniversary' as exactly that.

It's hard to believe that it was 3 yrs ago, I can still remember the cold sweat as I landed at Tokyo. I remember seeing all the little workers in cute little worker outfits all dressed properly and bowing to the plane, each other, the baggage, and anything else they didnt feel the urge to offend at the moment. I was in a daze through security/immigration/customs, and suddenly I was in the arrivals meeting Nobuko (friend from Canada), who quickly guided me on how to work the Japan Rail ticket machines and gates. Then the culture shock hit...

I was on the train from Narita to Yokohama. I have no idea what train lines I took. I know I changed at least 3 times. It was hell. It was 5pm, the rush of salarymen and office ladies were being literally crushed INTO the train by the official 'train packers'. I had a seat, with my large backpack on my knees, and my forehead buried into it trying to block it out. I looked, rough. I had a nice clausterphobic crush and a slight panic attack thinking, 'if this is Japan Im not lasting a month'.

Living in a foreign country definitely takes some sacrifices. I hear it too often from old friends that "you're living the life" etc. No, I'm living my life, you're living yours. I made these choices, you made yours. To live abroad you have to uproot yourself. I was lucky enough to have almost no roots put down and could pick up and roll on, but its still a challenge, and its something that each gaijin in Japan shares.

You do miss out on things. You miss Christmas' with family, you miss your sisters birthday, you miss your brothers first house, your miss Grandpa and Grandma's funerals, you miss your friends, your friends weddings, your friends new babies. You miss the NHL Playoffs every April-June, you miss the glacier, the Rockies, you miss running with your buddies trading stories that get better and better with time, you miss a steak, a slurpee, and real bacon.

But there's alot to be gained from it as well, and alot of things you learn to love.

I saw my first talking/music playing toilet.
I also had to learn HOW to use the toilets.
I had to learn how to take an Onsen (communal bath/hot spring) and sit on the mini stool without falling off, and learned to love soaking next to a group of strangers in the same water. Although my initial shock was, 'I have to soak next to some old balls in the same pool?!'
I can have a pretty good conversation in Japanese with a 4 yr old nowadays, or a very simple one with an adult.
I can actually read what some 'squiggly things' (kanji) say and what those 'boxy things' (katakana) mean too.
I love the mini cans of Coke and Guarana, just the right amount of pop that you don't get bloated (about 1/8th the size of a SuperSize McDs Coke back home, which would put me in the hospital now).
I love coffee in a can now.
Even if its cold coffee.
I also love coffee ice bars.
I just realized I may consume as much coffee as my Dad now.
I managed to get over eating Sushi and even like it, a little.
I got to BBQ fresh squid and got over the 'grossness' of it to admit it was kinda, sorta, good.
I got used to playing hockey and bowing to the refs after the game even if they usually were shit. And won two city championships along the way.
I even led in goals, and of course, penalty minutes.
I helped get the Sapporo Terry Fox Run off the ground for 2 yrs with the help of an unreal group of supporters.
I ran 3 marathons in 3 yrs.
I ran my fastest half marathon, full marathon, and 10k in Japan.
I was able to feel comfortable in a room of 8 four year olds, some crying, some pissing themselves, and some staring at me trying to figure out why I had blue eyes, likes it some sort of affliction.
I managed to get so used to those four years olds that when I left them they were 6 and 7 yr olds and I actually missed them, alot.
I was able to save up enough to get half out of debt, and even take a dream trip through Tibet, Nepal, and Vietnam.
I even love the private karaoke boxes here (not for the songs, but for the drinks and good times)
I love the all you can eat and all you can drink set ups here.
I really love the fact you can sit outside in the part and sip a beer, and its not against the law, its not offending an overprotective civil rights group, you can just sit outside, and enjoy it.
And the snow in Hokkaido is the best in the world.

It turned out I lasted that first month, my travels around Japan, throughout Hokkaido, 3 (yes THREE) trips back home to Canada, a Christmas in Okinawa, and a bike ride through Tibet. What was a working holiday visa year (max one year mom, I swear) has turned into 3 today. It's easier to look back on 3 yrs not just for what you've done or what you've learned, but look back and imagine your life without the people you've met along the way, the good times had, and you'll find you can't imagine NOT having come to Japan. As long as you keep moving forward, life keeps up. If you're not moving forward, you're spinning your wheels (or pulling a 'smokeshow' if youre in my redneck hometown).

Cheers Japan, here's to the next three.

(kidding Mom, put the phone down)

Nov.18 - Saigon to Bangkok to Seoul to Sapporo

2006-11-18T08:59:00.002-08:00

Nov.17 Saigon - War Remnants Museum

2006-11-18T08:59:00.001-08:00

Nov.16 Cu Chi Tunnels

2006-11-18T08:59:00.000-08:00

The morning started off early as usual catching the bus off to the Cu Chi area. It was a joint 'Happy Tour' and TM Bros trip. The younger guide was only 22, but the older one (his big brother) was well over 50 and served with the South Vietnamese Army during the American War, alongside the Americans. He had a funny sense of humour, but I wonder how he really feels, guiding tourists back to the tunnels used by his former enemies.

There was a great set up throughout the jungle trail, showing the types of traps the Viet Cong used to use, they were just brutal traps, but I guess they accomplished the job. It couldve been worse, they couldve Napalmed entire villages of civilians and let Agent Orange linger and deform future populations. It makes the pitchfork leg breaking foot trap look like a happy ending compared to them.

There was an eerie feeling though, walking throught the Jungle, and actually hearing the gunshots and machine gun fire going off at the nearby rifle range. A few of us took some shots on the AK47, hopefully the only time in my life, super loud with a huge kickback into the shoulder. The tunnel itself has actually been widened for the 'big westerners', the originals are tight enough that even the small Vietnamese would have had to crawl through them snake like. As we descended some stairs then suddenly into the entrance of the tunnel, I had that cold sweat on again. The problem being a few others freaked out, and that worried me, if theyre in front of me in this tight little tunnel and they spaz out and need to get out, it gets ugly in there. I ducked in and started crawling but soon reversed out and had to take a few breathes and re assess. First of all, its the only time in my life Ill be here. Second of all, theres that macho thing to worry about. Third, suck it up.

So I went in again and made it the whole 50metres (felt like 500). It weaved, went up, down.. but as soon as I saw that small exit on the left I bee lined it out of there, then realized my shirt was dripping with sweat worse than my office shirt in July.

Nov.15 Mekong Delta

2006-11-18T08:56:00.000-08:00

nov.14 Saigon

2006-11-16T21:35:00.000-08:00

nov.13 Mui Ne

2006-11-16T21:29:00.000-08:00

Nov.11 - Jungle Beach

2006-11-12T04:29:00.000-08:00

Nov 10th, Monkey Island

2006-11-10T08:05:00.001-08:00

Nov.9th Nah Trang

2006-11-10T08:05:00.000-08:00

Hoi An - Nov 5-6-7-8th

2006-11-06T04:01:00.000-08:00

November 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th

Nov.4th - Halong Bay Kayak back to Hanoi

2006-11-06T03:58:00.000-08:00

The last morning here on this private beach, everyone's feeling the same, we don't want to go yet. It's been so good to be away from all cars/motorbikes, streetstalls, noise... and be on this secluded beach with kayaks, huts, and a fridge of Tiger Beer.

The morning kayaking was good, if anything it was a bit too short. The cave we went into was only about 70m, a far cry from yesterdays nutshow in the cave. We paddled into some eerily quiet lagoons where you just lift your paddle out of the water and sit back and listen.

On the ride home, a really strange dude got into the van with our group, apparently he's with a different group sharing the way home.. anyways.. he was on SOMEthing. There really wasn't much going on upstairs, he mumbled a bit, then would rock out to himself, then pretended to punch the window because Jeff (who he hadnt met yet) didnt want to get out and have an ice cream. Just messed up.

Into Hanoi to pick up train tix, soak up some more of the Old Quarter, then jump on the train. Sharing the room is a couple from Germany, no idea of names, I only reconfirmed that noone loves beer as much as the Germans. He killed 2-3 cans of Heine then said goodnight and shut out the light.

Nov.3rd - In a Cave with the Tide Rising

2006-11-06T03:57:00.000-08:00

Day 2 is our full day in the kayaks, complete with full caves etc. The morning was spent cruising into some quiet lagoons and enjoying the perfect weather while paddling around. For lunch we docked up against the boat and they served up a 'white fish' to us. Whats a white fish? I dont know, but thats what our guide called it. I thought Id give it a shot, until we noticed the GUTS still inside of it, normal in Asia, not so normal in Canada. I scraped some off and ate a bit of the fish meat anyways, and a bit of shrimp. After lunch we all jumped off the second deck of the boat into the ultra warm (and ultra salty) water. The SanFran couple took awhile to jump, until the guy nearly pushed her off, good times. Awesome swimming then lounging in the sun up on the deck again.

The afternoon though was ... interesting. We cruised to a small cave that you could barely notice, where our guide then greased the palms of some local 'environmental guards'. Duc tells us its a 200m narrow cave and we'll pop out at the other end. As we're paddling in, its getting darker, and musky, and Im getting that clausterphobic feeling. 140m in, and Im battling off wave after wave of panic attacks, and its narrowed to 2m wide. We've had to put all the paddles inside, and use our hands to steer/direct the kayaks holding onto the roof, which is about a foot above the kayak. Now Im leaning way wayyy back in the boat, my forehead is scraping the top, and even typing about it now has me breaking into a cold sweat. Like my Dad says, "why cant you be normal and take a vacation to Vegas??". With my headlamp I can see Duc (guide) in front but he's stuck, trying to literally push his kayak deeper into the water so he can squeeze onward.

Im not liking the looks of this.

He gives us all a choice, we can get out and swim (but risk getting cut up on the floor and walls of the cave he adds after), or we can reverse and turn around. He assures us that the tide isnt coming up too fast, but I dont see "Tide Expert" across his forehead so Im all for getting the hell out of there, as was everyone else. The reverse was interesting, and once we were heading OUT it felt alot better. Showing impeccable timing, Duc then told us of the story of another kayaking company who lost 3 tourists in that cave last May when the tide came in and they were trapped. Lovely.

The Tiger beers around the beach bonfire went down smooooth after that.

Nov.2nd - Kayak Trip to Halong Bay

2006-11-06T03:56:00.000-08:00

Up and on the way to Handspan's Office by 6 (six?!) am. The drive from Hanoi to Haphong was about 2 hours, and Duc the guide, told us all some stories. Theres Canadians, Dutch, and Americans on this trip, no Brits??
From Haphong we caught the boat for an hour to Cat Ba Island, then a 15 minute van ride, then a 45 minute boat ride to the Handspan Beach. Its a private beach (see pic above on the right), no roads to it, just on an isolated island. We grabbed a good lunch with yesterdays group then took off in the kayaks for 3-4 hours all afternoon. The typhoon that was supposed to come caused a few waves but thankfully it turned away far south of here. Went through some small caves, and to a quiet beach in Halong Bay where we had tea and apples (nice mix!) and chilled out a bit. Back at the Base Camp everyone had a great dinner and a few beers, then laid down on the beach. So good to be out of the city.

Oct.31st - Arrival in Vietnam

2006-11-06T03:52:00.000-08:00

The flight was short and budget. Budget flights arent really that bad of a thing, as long as you can trust the plane (I know my Dad is shaking his head right now) and it gets you there on time. I went on Air Asia for $40, can you go wrong? Except they try to charge for water, all went fine.

Immigration at Hanoi is a breeze too, only IF you have the paperwork done. I guess almost 3 yrs in J-land have done some good since Im organized with the paperwork (like my office super book).

There's a million motorbikes here. Actually maybe more. Motorbikes carrying families of 5, who needs a minivan or SUV?? Motorbikes carrying building supplies. Motorbikes carrying 3 dead pigs strapped on the back. Hanoi has a cool feel too it, and the lake in the center of town (Hoam Kiem) is nice, so is the Old Quarter nearby. Tons of shops, lots of energy. Crossing the street here is a nutshow though, its like a real life frogger game. You just have to walk into the madness of mopeds motorbikes taxis bicycles and cars coming straight at you, they usually turn (if they DIDNT turn would I be here writing this?). It all works out somehow, like all things in SE Asia, and the main thing is DONT HESITATE. If you freak out and start ziggin/zaggin you're going to the next one strapped to the motorbike.

Tonight I even caught the Water Puppets show. Supposedly world renowned, a 'must see'. It was pretty good, and impressive how the actors (puppet masters?) can control the puppets on the long pole while underwater.

Oct.30th - Bangkok Storage Day

2006-11-06T03:51:00.001-08:00

It sucks to have to use a vacation day as an 'errand day', but this had to be done. In short order, I had to get rid of the beard, arrange laundry that can be done fast, lose said laundry, re-find said laundry, print off a map to the storage joint, beg taxis to take me there and not rip me off, wait a long time for a taxi to agree to a reasonable price, breath smog, store the bike/gear bag, kill a frappo from Starbucks and get a beer in me before I snapped.

Anyone who knows me, knows Im a bit of a freak about time. I love my time. Time is more valuable than almost anything save a signed Gretzky jersey. So a day like today had me sweating (Id sweat anyways) and running around like mad, but it had to be done, so like they say in Japan, shoganai.

24 hrs in Bangkok and Im ready to get out, heading to Hanoi, Vietnam in the morning.

Oct.29th - Nepal to Thailand

2006-11-06T03:51:00.000-08:00

Waking up this morning, I felt like I was completely spent. Packing last night, I could barely hold my eyes open, and walking makes my achilles feel like its about to tear. Still though, feeling good from the whole ride.
3 riders are going to make the trip 30k down into Kathmandu (reaping the benefits of our brutal climb last night), since they dont fly out right away. Im definitely jealous, but what can you do?
Its the tour company's fault that we can't all make the entire trip, since they changed our China flight and told us about it with a week before arriving in Nepal.
A quick breakfast and some pics before heading onto the bus with Pema Sherpa. I couldnt even box my bike up (Makalu brought out a water soaked box from the 30's, I refused to use it). In the airport I tried to get a snickers and water (Im addicted to Snickers now, thanks Dr.Nick), but didnt have enough Rupees left.
The flight to Bangkok was fairly painless, and once again Thai Airways didnt charge any extra for my bike, so huge thanks to them for being one of the last 'bike friendly' airlines.
Bangkok hasn't changed a whole lot in the past 5 yrs since I first came here. Im staying in Sukhumvit area. Pretty much, its a white/western world transported into "Asia", this city. Everything and anything you want you can find. For some travellers that may be enough and just what they need actually, for others though its best to escape. By the way, the massive hamburger I had tonight was my first in a month and went down in less than 1 minute.

Tibet Day 15 Zangmhu to Dulikhel

2006-11-06T03:48:00.000-08:00

Sat Oct 28 2006

98kms 5hours:34mins

Hungover (from 3 beers???), and super tired this morning. Felt like I barely slept in this hole of a hotel, really missing the tent.
We crossed the border, and then rode downhill for eight k of 'no mans land'. I cant believe it was 8k long, creeepy, and lots of people around the place, what country do they live in?? Had to say goodbye to Palden, our Tibetan guide, good guy.
Into Nepal, the Venezuelan team decided to roll off in teh jeep today since their time was tight. There was no way I was gonna miss this downhill though, not with all the climbing I did this trip. Also a part of me wanted to do the whole thing, unassisted, unaided, no vehicles, no holding onto trucks on the climbs, nothing but bike and on my own power.
The downhill RIPPED, so much fun. Bad luck struck team Venezuela though when their jeep broke down, and it turned out that they got to Kat alot later than us who rode, that sucks.
5 of us once again ended up riding together, and we turned it into a fun ride, adding sprint attacks, mountain climb challenges, you name it. Of course, it blew us up, but what is there to save it for?... a big fucking climb as it turned out later.
We did a bit of a pub crawl, but only Chris boozed, those Austrians love their booze. We inhaled junk food at a few villages, just because we can. Then the climb started, from Dologhat up to Dulikhel. It turned into a 37km climb. Fitting that our last climb was BRUTAL. It really did take a team to push each other up it though. We took a good Pepsi break, then pushed on. Chris and Terry put down punishing paces, and we all tried to gut out the last hard day. I couldnt believe the lactic acid in my legs, the dizziness, I was spent.. we got to the summit, the goal, the town of Dulhikel by sundown, spent.

Its a weird feeling, the end of a ride... the end of 2 months, 2400kms for me, from Japan to Tibet to Nepal. I couldnt pack up my bike, not just yet.

Our group had a final dinner, but people were actually falling asleep at the table, everyone is so tired. NOt sure how to sum up a trip like this, amazing, unforgettable.. It was easily the hardest thing Ive ever done, by far, the furthest Ive pushed myself. Now time for rehab and relaxing times in Nam on the beaches...

Tibet Day 13 - Tingri to LaLung Pass

2006-11-06T03:47:00.001-08:00

Thurs - Oct 26 - 2006 4300m-4800m

77kms Riding Time 5hours:27mins

The dogs were out in full force last night, the well known tibetan wild dogs who love to bark, fight, near tents. I still slept well, but many others didnt it turned out. As we started out on another frosty morning, the peaks of Everest and Cho Oyu sent us off. My achilles is at its worse today, stayed stiff and cold for at least 10k, and didnt get much better the whole day. I started dead last, and kept a slow steady pace, trying to get warm, but my feet were numb all morning til I massaged them to life at lunch. Eventually I joined up with Chris, Nick, Mike, and Terry and we rode in to lunch by 1130am for a siesta and food.

The afternoon ride from 1:15 went uphill, the whole way. LaLung Pass is a beast, over 5000metres yet again, but it couldnt be as bad as Lakpa the other day that broke my spirit completely. Decided to leave nothing in the tank today since tomorrow we were told is an 'easy' day, and the start of the ultimate downhill.

The pass turned out to be one of the toughest. The freezing headwind at times sucked, and a few false summits werent fun at all. Chris was the only one in front of me at his steady Jan Ullrich like pace, and I just kept my own pace. Unfortunately my gas ran out just before the summit, suddenly I became dizzy, a little disoriented, and swerved to a stop on the bank edge. Thankfully Dr.Nick was right behind me (note:always have a doctor riding behind you if you try to blow yourself up). He made sure I was good to go after a Snickers break. He swears that the two snicker diet is the way to go on this kindof trip, so Im taking his word for it. The downhill into our camp wasnt too long, but sweet nonetheless. We were all pretty blasted (4 of us, Terry was on his way though) by the time we got there for some Masala tea and crackers. Terry rolled in looking utterly screwed, and I remembered I had told him Id give him a Snickers bar today...but we hadnt ridden together it turned out. I forced one on him and he was revived in no time.

Its our last night camping tonight. The chef somehow made a massive thank you cake, its amazing the things that they can make here in their little cook tent. One last night in the tents, our tenth night camping in all. Not sure why, but Ill miss it.

Tibet Day 14 - Lalung Valley to Zanghmu border town

2006-11-06T03:47:00.000-08:00

Fri Oct 27 2006

94kms Riding time 5hours:32mins

Well, the "Ultimate Downhill"...that light at the end of the tunnel for many of us, proved to be overhyped to start our day. It turned into the ultimate headwind...

The tents hit -21 last night, and it was tough to get things packed this morning in the cold when your fingers hurt. Our first contest is a little pass, rising not much, but steadily, for about 9k. That could mean 4 or 19k though. I started out, but within one k, my rear shock was dead flat out of air, and my shock pump was still on the bus back at camp. I waited, expecting the bus to be there shortly, while everyone continued on the climb. The bus took a full hour though. I got it set up then pushed to get up to the summit where some had waited for me thankfully. No time for a Mars, just a picture then get ripping.

The downhill from this point was pretty cool, lots of shortcuts and crazy trails. Mark duct-taped his video camera to his handlebar, catching some legendary footage of the downhill. The downhill lasted only an hour or so, and when we got to a small village a few of us had our brake pads changed (thanks to Mike). From there though, it was rough going for 20-30kms. The wind was just sapping our strength. Mike and I waited for Dil, our guide, but even he was beaten down by the wind and couldnt hold onto our backwheels, so he jumped on the bus. Mike and I stopped behind a massive boulder for lunch with some Belgian cyclists, then rode on, alternating with the headwind. Andres had a flat tire, his first, the lucky bastard. We got to the bus at a small village and ate a quick bite to eat before carrying on. I think a few of us (well me for sure) had poured it out yesterday, and had too high of expectations for this downhill promised to us on an 'easy' day. The road rolled up and down, and at one point I threw my bike down in disgust to sit down and recharge. Mark sat down and got me past my spaz moment. We made it to Nyalam, a shithole of a town, and from there it was actually a big big downhill.

But first I had a flat tire from a thumbtack picked up in Nyalam.
As I fixed it, a yak strolled right behind me, cool.

From there though, Mark and I cruised the downhill. Before we knew it, we were changing zones. What a contrast as we dropped a few thousand metres, suddenly it got warmer. We had started the day in full winter gear, now just shorts and tshirt. There was one point when I felt mist from a nearby waterfall and was shocked into realizing Id basically just left Tibet, instantly I missed it up there on the roof of the world. Mark pointed out that there were insects around too now, so many things, sights sounds and smells overloading the senses. We got to the border town of Zanghmu by 630pm, another full day, hard day. The town is sketchy, like all border towns tend to be, think Tijuana meets corrupt Chinese/Nepalese. ON top of all that, our hotel only would turn on the hot water from 930-1130pm, I thought the front desk was gonna get murdered, maybe he deserved it. So we went to dinner and celebrated with Lhasa Beers for a few hours, and showered later. One last day of riding left, too bad.

Tibet Day 12 -Rongbuk to Tingri

2006-11-06T03:45:00.000-08:00

Weds Oct 25 - 2006

5000m to 4200m

83kms Riding Time 5hours:32mins

Frost lined the walls of the tent, and my contacts were frozen solid in their case. Pema had lied, it hit -27 last night.

The ride today was gonna be a battle, mainly to get started. Only four of us (nick, michel, chris, and I) are doing the first 17k, where upon terry mark and andres will join up, and the rest of the group will meet at lunch at about 42k.

It was FREEZING. My toes were numb, my fingers numb, my eyes watering and freezing tears. The 17k was downhill on the washboard, and we ripped it as fast as we could to get it done. We turned away at 17k, and up towards the pass. Its a beautiful valley, one of the nicest Ive seen ever. We passed the bus and truck a few times, and some of the kids in one village were ultra aggressive, even throwing stones at Chris. Thats not to say all kids are like that, but some believe now that foreigners=money/candy/pens.

Today Tibet really showed off for us though.. the bright sky, such a deep deep blue , the contrast with teh gray and brown of the lifeless hills, with the white capped glaciated peaks in the background forming the Himalaya. We all cruised to lunch, where a group of nomads sat near us and watched with interest, then feasted after on leftovers.

The afternoon ride was just....awesome. Crazy downhill to start where we hit 55kph on gravel/rock, then singletrack along a cliff edge. SO good, I dont even know how to explain it properly. The group even rode all together today, 13 riders, which doesnt happen often. One creek crossing was pretty tough, shoes/socks off wade across. A moron landcruiser slammed through the crossing just after us, as Michel was still putting his socks back on, and the water flooded his gloves that were on the side. He yelled at the guy, then kicked the back of his truck. The Chinese driver stopped, got out, looked at it, and then slowly, deliberately, picked his nose. Not a word spoken.

After reaching the town of Tingri we were thrown back in time again. A wild feel to the town again. Mark, Terry and I all stopped in a local joint/house for a coke. The last 10k or so was easy going, but everyones tired out, especially the few of us who rode the whole day. We barely made it before dinnertime, early sleep tonight holding my chronically cramped left hand. Even had heart pains today (prob just chest or muscle), and Oreo made me wear a moniter to watch it. Nothing serious, but maybe the altitude and long days of exertion are wearing on me. The summits of Everest and Cho Oyu were in view tonight, lit up with the Alpen glow.

Photo Captions:

Top Left: Last goodbye, sunrise on Everest

Top Right: Yak

Pic 3: Group on the Pass' Summit, with random trader in there too.

Pic 4: Ullrich

Pic 5: Road ahead to Tingri

Tibet Day 11- Everest Base Camp

2006-11-06T03:44:00.000-08:00

Tues Oct 24 - 2006

Hike 17kms, 4 hours or so. Up to 5200metres, still sleeping at 5000m.

A rest day, the first since we got to Lhasa. The snow fell pretty hard last night, so after knocking it off the tents, we decided against biking the 8k to basecamp and hiked it. We took a high route foolishly though, and after 1k scree skiied down to the gravel road to continue on. Some great old ruins built into the landslide though, could see kitchens, rooms, everything..

When we got closer to base camp, Everest came into view, base to summit. HUGE.
The final k or so was over the ice core moraine, and the Rongbuk Glacier came into view...it once went well past the monastery and on.

Base camp is but a long wide gravel glacial outwash. Theres a few permanent buildings, but theres no tents set up right now, its not the summit season. At the base camp "office" we had our lunch. Its something Ill never forget for sure, leaning back on my pack, with Mount Everest in front in full view, the blazing sun baking us, while reading the book on the search for George Mallory, and pointing to where they found, and buried, his body in 1999.

I took a solo walk up to the toe of the glacier, then across to the makeshift cemetary to pay my respects. I thought of all the history here, the famous people who Ive read about so long who walked this path, some who died up on those slopes, and the dreams that were left here with it.

The walk back was long, and Mark and I were beaten by the end of it. Took a stroll through Rongbuk afterwards. After dinner, 5of us went over to the guesthouse nearby. It was weird to see so many other people/tourists again, and we tasted just a bit of booze to toast the day.

Pema Sherpa predicted a -20celsius sleep....

Tibet Day 10 - To Rongbuk Monastery

2006-11-06T03:38:00.001-08:00

Mon Oct 23 - 2006

Start 4200m, end 5000m elevation.

Bike 36hard Kms.

Riding time 3 hours ,31mins.

Brutal.

Just brutal.

The road from our camp to Rongbuk is a washboard road being further eroded by the landcruisers that fly by at mach3. It was 3 1/2 hrs of bouncing, ass killing, riding. Terry taught me the British phrase, "me ass is in bits", over and over. Never seem him so negative, but this road can break anyone I now believe.

Nothing to describe, it was barren, and hard, and was more a mental battle to keep moving so slowly than anything else.

But rounding a corner, I finally saw Mt Everest, at least i thought the whole thing at the time. It turned out to be less than half of the full thing I was seeing, but it still amazed me. Ive waited so many years thinking of it, it pushed me onwards. Dil and Nobu (bus driver) brought us out some soup and hot tea, as they recognized how beaten down the entire group was. By 3pm we biked past the highest monastery in the world, Rongbuk Monastery. Our camp is right next to it. I felt pretty exhausted after the ride, and after tea / lunch at 4pm, people were laying back needing a rest day finally. Meal time is becoming noticibly more aggressive as well, but we all need more and more food, bigger portions are happening. The snow started coming down, and Mike and I set to work fixing my rear shock for those bouncy days. Around dusk, Mt Everest showed her entire self to us, the summit! 8,850metres above sea level, the very highest point of the planet, unbelievable. Even if this little glimpse is my only sight of it, Ill be a happy man.

Tibet Day 9 - Pang Pass

2006-11-06T03:36:00.000-08:00

Sun Oct 22- 06

4370m, to Pang Pass summit of5200m, downto 4300 in Rongbuk Valley

63kms

Riding time 5hours:19mins

One week from now Ill be in Bangkok, I told myself as I started today knowing we had 5 nights of camping in a row from here. The hotel was freezing cold, breakfastcrappy, but any day riding a bike is better than a day in the office.

The road out of Shegar was nice and the morning light stunning. After about 12k, we turned left onto a bumpy gravel road. I started late with Terry. We ended up tackling the whole day together. Pang Pass lived up to its reputation today. There are 42 hairpin switchbacks that wind their way up to the top, where you are sometimes rewarded with your first full view of the Himalaya, Makalu, Everest, and Cho Oyu. Terry and I methodically pedalled up and got to the top in 3hrs 34mins, a long ass morning climb Id say. Had lunch in the Everest Tea House, where I forgot my visine. Ive had horrible trouble with my eyes in this dust, and my contacts arent lasting very long no matter how careful I am with them. Forgetting my only visine was nearly a critical mistake, as my vision was maybe 60% the whole downhill and flat today, even for 2 hours after I removed my contacts out... but Andres bailed me out with his eye drops thankfully.

The downhill was..... AWESOME. Id say top 3 of my life, really. We found an old yak singletrack and descended a full 1000metres, afew ofus anyways. I even got a flat tire but didnt care I was so happy to be ripping this downhill.

When we got to the townat the bottom, Palden told us its another 15kms along very rough washboard gravel again. It turned out to be 8 or 9 k (we gotta get these guys bike computers or gps systems). Nick and I spewed negativity the whole way back...but it actually reminds me a bit of Canada here, glacial streams next to us and a light snow coming down.

I feel pretty beat up today, my left hand is cramping up something fierce, maybe from teh downhill pressure. My wonky right achilles tendon has flared up fully now too and hurts every pedal, and Ive begun taking the diamox again to combat some altitude headaches that are coming in waves.

The view from the top of Pang Pass though was unforgettable, seeing most of Mt Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, just amazing. Tomorrow up to Rongbuk Monastery.

Tibet Day 8 - Lhakpa Pass Hell Climb

2006-11-06T03:35:00.000-08:00

Sat Oct 21 - 06
4100m start, up to 5220m on the pass summit, down to 4370m for camp.

77kms
Riding Time 5hours:27mins

Holy..... shit. I shouldnt swear here because my mom can read this, and may ground me, but shit, this was a hard one.

Started the bike day at 850am, finished at 530pm, thats l o n g . It was a 24k uphill today from camp to the summit of Lhakpa, also the entrance to Everest Nat Park. The 5 of us (same 5) rode strong and steady up. Terry seemed to be on speed today, spurred by his 3 hours of sleep next to snoring tent partner Cass, and was on fire on the climb. I made it to the top in 3h08mins, utterly drained. This is the highest elevation Ive ever been at, and probably ever will be at. I give Mike credit, he stopped to get me going when we were on false summit number 4 or 40. It was just head spinning draining for me today, and I felt like I had nothing left by the end. My head hurt, I had downed all my 3 litres of water that I carry at a time, and just spent.

As if that wasnt enough, the downhill didnt pay off. The cold icy wind ripped into our faces and I had instant snotcicles on the ride down. We had to pedal to get DOWNhill, for a first. We got to lunch and huddled in the gear truck it was so cold. Reluctantly, we started out again, even if the bus sounded like a good idea, the manly machoism won again. The ride down turned out great though after lunch, lots of dust, sand, dirt. Mike and I in front were loving life, while Terry behind me was getting a face full of dust the whole time (didnt know it at the time, but he'll live). We got to the little town of Shegar late again and into the hotel with no heating,but hot water at least.

Feeling really tired out, and tomorrows climb is Pang Pass, a beast of a climb that has crushed many before us.

Photo Captions
Top-After lunch good times dusty road
Left - Feeling rough
Right - Shoes clogged

Tibet Day 7 - Ya Lung Pass to Lhatse

2006-11-04T07:00:00.000-08:00

Fri Oct 20 - 2006 Up to 4920 metres, down to 4100m for camp.

81kms

Riding Time 4hours11mins

730 tea wakeup, riding by 850am. I wish all passes wre like this one today. Just a nice gentle slope up, just steep enoughto make progress, and just mild enough you dont blow up.

Its a cold cold day though today, full toque, facemask, gloves, extra layers.. On the summit of the pass, it was adorned with prayer flags (like always) and I mtb'd up to the very top with everyone for a tibetan biscuit and a few pics. The downhill flew, hitting 64km/hr at a fw points.

After lunch, Nick, Michel and I rode in to see the Xiquin Hot Springs, renowned for this area. THey turned out to be a muddy hole in the ground, interesting, but maybe Ive been spoiled with Japans amazing onsen scene.

10k into the small town of Lhatse, its a bit like the wild west here, when we stopped to shop for a few things, hordes of kids and adults followed in and just watched. They love to pick up the bikes, and seeing full suspension work is like theyre watching something from mars. 10k more and we got to the campsite in a little valley, great day of riding, feeling strong, lots of water downed today, maybe 8litres. Big day coming tomorrow I hear...

Tibet Day 6- Shigatse to the foot of Yalung La Pass

2006-11-04T06:59:00.001-08:00

Thurs Oct 19 2006 Finish at4100metres

85kms 3hrs 55mins Riding Time

Checked the blog this morning and saw it was censored, sketchy place here! China's watching.....

The ride today was supposed to be 75, but it got extended. Dil, our riding guide, often has issues telling km markers, lunch meeting spots, and total ks for the ride. An example being on the first 5 days of this ride, we were already a full 100kms OVER the original itinerary, so think of chalking an extra 20kms on at the end of an already long day, in which we're all still acclimitizing and hurting, for all 5 days, ouch.

Lunch time was funny. Often the local tibetans or nomads will swing by and take a look at us. Its like TV for them. really. They can sit and watch for hours. Not the rude gaijin stare like Japan, but just an amused look, and also a hope for some handouts at the end. I found out later on that our chefs and helpers always give away every morsel to the hungry around us, a nice gesture. Some of the kids were really really sick though, ill i mean, multiple thumbs, eye problems, eternal snot... got me a bit paranoid of catching an unknown bug, but maybe Im becoming immune.

The last 25k was really tough, straight into a hard hard wind. 5 of us once again grouped up and battled it home to the camp. For the first time, I feel weak. It hit me as we got to camp, and I stumbled a bit to the riverbank to drink down alot of water. Terry noticed me feeling rough so he forced down some parcetomols on me, and the others didnt hold it against me for heading right to the tent to get some rest. Everyones getting a bit tired by this point, people are 'whacked', as Nick, the well educated doctor put it.

Tibet Day 5- Gyantse to Shigatse Road Race

2006-11-04T06:59:00.000-08:00

Weds - Oct 18 - 2006 3950metres

93kms

Riding Time 3hours:11mins

First thing in the morning we went sightseeing with Palden to the Pelkar Chode Monastery (1418, a rare place where 3 different orders of Tibetan Buddhism once coexisted, rare). Also hit the Kumbum, meaning 100,000 images. I bought a few bracelets (so did terry and mark) from a really cool Tibetan monk. Hes 13 yrs old, spoke well, nice kid.

The team is breaking down. The days have been long, the rides longer. A few riders have become ill and been forced to take a few days off. Todays ride turned into a 94km road race from Gyantse to Shigatse saw only 9 riders out of 15 make the journey. A group of 5 of us shared the front headwind and kept up a 29km/hr pace, leaving us gasping by the time we got here. It was awesome though, to be in a paceline in a team, working together, but also its a very selfish thing, because it saves you energy. I once read that you can save something like 30% more energy by drafting on the guy in front of your wheel. Today it was Nick, Michel, myself, Terry, and Chris bombing along. Most of us have spedometres, so the transition time works well. One person rips at 30kph for one km marker, then he moves to the side and only slightly lowers his speed, allowing thepaceline to take over and the next in line to do his km of headwind. The only problem sometimes is when a rider pushes the speed up during his turn, which happens easily, and it leaves you working harder to just keep up on the tire of the guy in front of you. There were a few times when a rider would fall off the back and we'd all hold up a bit to team up again.

Arriving at Shigatse Hotel sortakinda early for once, we all grabbed showers then I got some photos burned to CD and skipped the monastery visit. Terry and I wandered the town and ate Yak Chili, which utterly sucked, so spicy. Even hit a net cafe where i tried to update my blog here, but it kept redirecting me, then I realized later it censored my post about the military.

Caught a taxi back to the hotel, with a tibetan couple in the backseat on either side of me just out on the town for a joy ride it seemed, funny place this is...

Tibet Day 4 - Jangdong to Gyantse

2006-11-04T06:58:00.000-08:00

Tues - October 17th - 2006
80kms

Riding Time 4hours:6mins

Well the guides (dil and palden) let us stay sleeping for an extra hour after last nights "festivities", so an 8am tea wake up by Pema Sherpa. Its nice being woken up with a steaming cup of black tea with sugar of course, but its damn hard to lean out of the tent to get it in the cold that is getting colder lately.

Another thing to get used to on this trip is the 'facilities', by that I mean the toilet. Its a modified lawn chair with a padded ring on top that you can move anywhere you want if tehre is no tent set up around it. I remembered BritinHokkaidos problems with the toilet seats in Japan that sometimes have the cloth cover and how gross she thought it was, Ill have to get a picture for her. The excitement of the morning came when Mark decided to capture me "auditioning" with the above-mentioned apparatus. Classy picture!

Today was our first real mountain biking though, so everyones spirits were up. It was awesome, like being kids again, whooping up and down through the dirt fire road and singletrack. Sometimes being passed by wagons pulled by a donkey or horse carrying some Tibetans who looked confused why us strange white folk would be riding a bike and wearing spandex for fun (for the record I only have spandex on if there are baggy shorts or top OVERtop of them, case closed). Some of the kids along the road today were pretty aggressive though, actually chasing us down a bit yelling for money and candy.
After lunch things blurred into a road race once back on the pavement. Nick, Chris, and I all worked together and flew along. We looked for a place to have tea but only ended up barging in on a tibetan mid day drinking party with a loud soap opera blaring in the middle of the room on the big screen, surreal. The last ten k was tough, washboard gravel road. Near the town of Gyantse is a huge monastery perched up on the cliff, one of the most impressive sights Ive seen. I stopped near the river where 4 tibetans were having a picnic on the rice wine. I had a few sips and they begged me for photos of the Dalai Lama. WHY didnt I take some shots on my digi before coming? They are forbidden and the Chinese authorities are pretty strict on it, but I shouldve anyways.

Everyones tired today, mentally and physically, its been tough. It feels like we have only been riding, this IS a bike tour afterall, but I think what's been ignored so far is everyones need for a little more time, a little bit of rest here and there. With the biking part of the trip being cut and squished into less riding days, our first 4 days have been HUGE. Averaging 25-30kms OVER what the itinerary stated only one week ago. Marks knee is blowing up, and Honorio has some lung infection happening, theyll both take tomorrow off. The team is breaking down...

Chinese Military - Day 3

2006-10-18T04:18:00.000-07:00

Nyemo to Jangdong (near Chinese Military Camp)... moved after 10pm to a Tibetan community 8kms away in the dark windstorm.

119km
RIDING TIME 6h:08mins

Another long day ahead, they told us today, Day 3, is the hardest one. The first 17k was cold and I had numb feet and frozen hands. Terry and I realized Mark was way at the back by himself so we waited for awhile for him to catch up. He's got a rough knee and is getting sick. Also, theres nothing worse than riding all alone with only the minibus behind you and the entire group up ahead of you.

The 3 of us rode on together and Terry and I literally pushed him up the rolling hills. At about 45 k though things went bad. First I got a flat on my front tire, which I changed pretty fast, no problem. Then Terrys tire went down. Then my back tire went down a few k later. I changed the tube but within one K it went down again! I was losing it, because I told Mark and Terry to head on up to the lunch spot, we all thought it was nearby , but it was actually at least 20 k away. I found a new tube in my bag and got my tire back rolling again, fighting the wind by myself. When I came around a corner, I saw Terry there, looking utterly deflated. HIS tire was down again. We fixed it up and then worked together fighting the headwind to get to the lunch spot at 67km. Because of all of our flats though, we were late getting there, and it was pretty well an "eat and get rolling" again.

Despite the heartburn and burps that inevitably come when you eat then push on like that, somehow Terry and I ended up at the front of the pack all afternoon. 4 of us shared the wind and we made some good time getting to the camp spot. Total for the day, 119kms!

I had a quick shower in the shower 'tent', where you basically pour warm water over your head and wash fast, then step out into thorns. A few Chinese military guys were wandering around on the other side of the creek, apparently their base is close by. It was beginning to get dark when a few more military men came over, questioining us, why we are so close to their base. Despite our guides pleas, they would show no reason. We had to move our camp. Imagine this, 14+ tents, 14 tourists, 6 staff, and its dark, all after having ridden the hardest day of the trip... They told us by 10pm we had to be out. A few of us helped to take down all the tents, while more and more military showed up and shone their flashlights around to make sure that we left. There were alot of bitter people.. all we were going to do was sleep for the next 12 hours and ride on, with their tiny training camp far off in the distance though, they would have nothing of the sort.

We had to crowd into the minibus and truck, drive 8k down the road to a small Tibetan community, where a nice older lady waved us towards a spot we could set up. The problem was the duststorm that was hitting, holding the tents down, fighting to put them up. It took a good 2 hours to finish it. Many people helped set up in the wild wind, while a few others hopped into a tent as soon as possible. Marks sounding rough tonight, dry cough and pretty pasty. He'll come around tomorrow though.

I guess we got a bit of a glimpse of how the Chinese govt and military works tonight, though admittedly, 1/1000th of how unfairly the Tibetans have been treated over the past 50-60 years. Theyve had their way of life change more in the past 50 years than probably in the previous 1000. There are paved roads all over here now, and they're creeping across Tibet like a virus. You think that its so the Tibtans can have more access? With their little wagons pulled by a donkey/horse, or broken down bikes? I dont even know if many own cars. Its so the military can keep a watch on everyonee, keep control, access more, extract more of TIBET'S resources, expand more, money money power power... I wont go off into my own diotribe right now because the computer is rough here... another time.

Kamba La Pass - Day 2

2006-10-17T07:49:00.000-07:00

Kamba La Pass Climb Up, Then Down, Back Around and Over to Nyemo

95km Riding Time 6hrs

Being awaken at 7am by the Sherpa saying "good moooorning" and handing me a cup of black tea isn't so bad.

We were up and riding by 830am. Todays going to be a tough one. The first is a climb up Kamba La Pass. Our starting elevation is about 3600m, but the pass summit is 5000m! Imagine

climbing Mt.Athabasca, then biking up the same elevation from that top.

The climb was chilly, and slow going. I rode mostly on my own today and concentrated on keeping a pace and making it up in one piece. I ended up getting to the top 4th out of the 15 of us, but it really didn't matter, whether you fly up or take your time, you're going to be tired out. On the very top, theres an amazing view of Yamdruk tso lake, its an emerald green lake. Lots of tour buses around, noone can believe we just biked up. It took me about 3 hours just up. The lake view is worth it though, unfortunately the Chinese wisdom has recently been to start draining this sacred lake (the Tibetans believe a god lies within it, and wont fish/wash/shampoo/cook with the waters of it, leave it completely undisturbed), and using it for hydro electric energy that inevitably goes to Beijing, not to Lhasa, a well known fact here. What they didnt realize (or care about), is the lake isnt re filling. Its sinking, the shores are exposing themselves higher and higher, and parts of the lake are now seperated from the main body even. Within 7 yrs it is expected that the lake will be empty if nothing changes. My tibetan guide Palden thinks the pressure of the Chinese tourists, not the Tibetan voice, will eventually change their mind to save the lake.

The downhill was.... a screamer. 65kph at one point. It took only 30 minutes. Once back at camp we had lunch and then set off for the next part of the ride, a 45km jaunt. Everyone was getting pretty tired though, lacking energy after such a huge climb this morning. There were a few more flat tires today, and a bit of a head wind too. Eventually we found the camp set up by 730pm, a LONG day in the bike seat, just as it began to get dark. I ate as much as I could, but was just so sleepy. The stars here (we're camping at a place called Nyemo, pronounced NEMO), are like Ive never seen. Its amazing how they look when youre out of the city lights. I was out cold by 930 shivering in my down bag.... with the biggest day to come tomorrow still.

Pictures from Top to Bottom:

1-Terry and Marks artistic sunglass photo shoot.

2-Roy and Alene powering up the Pass

3-Spoke view of Yamdruk Tso.

4-Yamdruk Tso Lake from over 5000m.

In the distance is a 7000m mountain.

Leaving Lhasa - Day 1

2006-10-17T04:39:00.001-07:00

Lhasa to the Foot of Kamba La Pass
88km Riding Time 4hrs:38mins

You could tell everyone in the group was dying to get moving and doing something, as we didnt hold a slow pace to start off our morning. All together there're 14 riders plus Dil our riding guide from Nepal, and Palden our Tibetan guide. The riders:
Myself, of course. Chris (Austria, also my roomate, 6'4" and flies), Mark and Terry (UK), Roy and Alene (UK, older couple with endurance to spare), Nick (radiologist from the UK), Mike (bike ninja from Holland), Francis (Switzerland), Santos (Brazil), and 4 guys from Venezuela, Honorio, Jorge, Andres, and Luis-Felipe.

The road is paved out this way, but noone really knows how far it is paved (within our group). Just a few years ago this was all a gravel road, but the Chinese quest to 'liberate' Tibet means paved roads for their blaring horns and army trucks to go through to wherever they see fit. The morning was a good ride, we arrived at the lunch spot by 130pm. Part of our tour package is a team of cooks and a sherpa even. It was a full spread of Nepalese and Tibetan food on the table and r-fuelled. Unfortunately, the spot we chose for lunch is full of these little thorns that puncture right into your tube usually with any pressure. There ended up being 11 flat tires today, 2 of them were mine, both front and back. We got to a bridge to cross the river, and the military was guarding it. Our Tibetan guide had already showed our permit so we could cross, then Chris asked if he can take photos, they said no. We get to the middle of the bridge and the Venezuelans yell "PHOTO TIME!". We all took a bunch before the guards got on the radios and started heading towards us. The villages we rode through are amazing, the houses are so old, with a small courtyard in the front (for livestock if any), and walls of mud, clay, rocks.. you name it.. straw even. Throngs of little Tibetan kids came out running out onto the side of the road to high five us. One group of 5 were a bit aggressive though asking me for money, so obviously some dipshit tourist had given out money before to these kids thinking he/she was doing a huge favour and helping them out, when in fact he was doing the opposite. The group of 5 started on me and Mark took a good picture of them chasing me down. The camp site was set up when we got there and we feasted on a nice dinner before crashing out by 930pm.

Finally Tibet

2006-10-13T04:06:00.000-07:00

All those years ago, finally here I am in Tibet!

(to the left:The Potala Palace)
(below:The cleaning lady at Drepung Monastery)

The way to Lhasa from Kat was an ordeal to say the least, and took some serious haggling with the airlines...another time. Flying above the mountains was unreal, easily the best 1 hr flight Ive ever been on. I was changed seats (Thanks TEL!), and it ended up in my favour since I watched Mt Everest float right next to me on the left along with the other Himalayan giants. I couldnt stop watching it.

Entering Tibet, we were shuttled to a bank and then to our hotel. The terrain is amazing here, barren, with the tree line being non existant it seems. The air is thin, since it is 3500metres above sea level, or roughly the tops of most peaks in the Canadian Rockies.

Today we spent the day seeing the Potala, Drepung, and Barkhor Square. Great people, the Tibetans I mean. Beautiful clothes, hair, eyes, and their faith in their religion blows my mind. To even try to imagine 1/100th of what they have gone through the past 50 years, is impossible for my mind. And here they are, giving what little money and yak butter they have to the donation boxes in the monastery, smiling, and showing their faith in Buddhism and His Holiness to no end.

The bike trip finally starts tomorrow.. no real time to get into details so far with these two quick posts sorry. From tomorrow our group will be riding the 1000k to Kathmandu along the Friendship Road. Heres hoping the altitude sickness stays away and a strong healthy ride ahead for everyone.

Kathmandu Times and Himalayan Whitewater

2006-10-08T04:38:00.000-07:00

The 3 flights werent all that bad, but being spread out left me tired out. In Seoul I found a great transit lounge to chill in.. once in Bangkok it was about midnight, and my flight the next morning not until 1030am. I didnt feel the need to go out on the town for a few hours so I chilled in the transit lounge, set up some couches and slept for a good 4 hours in the super A/C found only in Thai overnight buses and Japan 7-11's.

Coming into Nepal, it was beautiful. Apparently Mt Everest could be seen but not on my side of the plane. The hills and mountains are amazing though. I was in for a massive culture shock though once getting out of the airport (took 2 hours to pay for my visa, line ups and only 2 workers).
Porters pulling my bags from me, Nepalese and Indians yelling for taxi at me.. I found Mohan who loaded me into a van before some chubby dude whispered 'tips man you give me tips eh'.

Anyways, the first few days in Kathmandu were a bit of a blur.. the poverty surprised me. The narrow streets, the electrical wiring hanging haphazardly, and the touts and hawkers yelling to sell everything and anything. I hated it, walking down the street, having a guy working on you the whole way, like you're being hunted.

I spent one day up 1/2 way to Pokhara on a white water raft trip, no waivers in Nepal man! It was pretty nuts, Class 3+. The way home though I was on a public bus, the only white guy in sight, and sitting on the floor in the aisle since it was so packed. Most were on the roof holding on..and it took a full FIVE HOURS to get back.

By the 8th I met my group that Ill be biking with in Tibet. 14 of us in all. The group is pretty funny and everyone seems cool, 4 guys from Venezuela, a Brazilian, one from Holland, 5 Brits, a Swiss, an Austrian (my roomate), and me the only North American.

Kathmandu slowly grew on me, as I saw more and more of it outside of Thamel. The Monkey Temple, the Hindu Shrine and cremation river, Bouddha, and other places were great. China Air changed our flight to the 12th to Lhasa so we lost a day of acclimitizing...not good. Since we had that extra day in Nepal we spent it up in Nagarkot (after visiting Bhaktapur and Patan).
Like a friend told me, Kathmandu has a cool vibe once you can find it and it definitely grew on me, the great foods, bargaining in the street stalls, and people watching.

Off to Thailand, Nepal, Tibet, Vietnam

2006-10-03T07:15:00.000-07:00

I'm heading out in less than 12 hrs on the first leg of the next journey. It's been a long long road to get here. I'm not complaining, I asked for this, I chose this. I've researched, battled for flights and prices, and today hit a few more roadblocks. It seems inter-Asia flights have a weight limit of only 20kgs for TOTAL luggage. Well weighing my bike and gear, came to 22kg, thats not including any clothes or sleeping bag, which all told brings the weight up to 39kg. So Im in for a battle and some begging at the airport tomorrow with Korean Air. From there, I'll arrive in Bangkok just before midnight at the brand new worlds largest airport. As its only been open a week, its still teething. Unfortunately for me who has a morning flight and doesnt want to go downtown Bangkok for a few hours, the day rooms to sleep/rest in arent finished yet. I did manage to find that self storage is available. I think I'm destined to be sleeping in the airport though for tomorrow night if it's possible. My flight to Nepal is the next morning, and then I have about a week in Nepal to do some rafting, biking, get used to the elevation, and just enjoy the trip finally. The past week I've done nothing but plan, pack, prepare, and not much else.

For any family members or friends who have just learned of this blog, please leave comments! Its easy, you dont need to sign up, you just can type in your name and leave a message. This will be the easiest way for me to keep in touch while travelling, but I'll try to get a few emails out once in awhile.

I've dreamt of seeing the Himalaya and Tibet for years now and can't wait to do it, by bike! Ive spent most of my savings on this trip, and will spend up to 800 more in luggage surcharges to get there and back possibly, but in the end, it's only money. When will I have this chance again? Not likely anytime soon, and with the Chinese paving roads like mad and putting train lines into Tibet, will it ever be the same again? And if you say, "you're so lucky", don't. Every lifestyle takes sacrifices and mine is no exception. Each person can choose and make their own destiny, it's just not always clear to them what they want or need. Tomorrow morning Ill be the one dragging my bike box 1k to the train station, up the stairs, and onto the airport.

Keep in touch everyone.

Day 14 - Hokkaido Ride - Back to Sapporo

2006-10-03T06:55:00.000-07:00

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 25th, 2006

URAUSU to SAPPORO

72km 3h 23m

Well that's it that's all... I took a cruisy morning today, the last day of this great trip. I packed slowly, laying everything out. It was when I took my fly off, I saw him, Big Scary Spider was still with me! It had to be him, had I carried him for 80 from Mashike yesterday?? I shook him free. When I layed my gear out on a wooden plank, suddenly I saw an even sicker spider making a beeline for my sleeping bag. My insect understanding went out the window and I swung my sandal ending with a squishy crunchy sound, no more prisoners now boys.

Todays ride was actually my fastest speedwise, I kept a 21.3kph clip up even through the city. Entering Sapporo I was greeted with cars on the sidewalk, parking on the side of the road, and overgrown bike lanes. Not deterred, I rode on to Odori to meet some work buddies for some MacD's and a few tall cans. After begging my ex boss to let me go home rather than more tallies, I saw Yuki from Rishiri at Shugakuso. Had a good chat then I rolled home, as my odometer hit exactly 1000kms. What a trip... time to rest up and prep for Nepal, Tibet, Thailand and Vietnam now though.

RECAP: TOTALS for the Stats Geek in me. (yes, I used to keep road hockey stats)

1000.5kms covered. 55 hours.
KM TIME AVG MAX
Sept.12 51.2 2:58 17.2 44.8
Sept.13 107.1 6:08 17.4 48.5
Sept.14 67.8 3:42 18.2 45.6
Sept.15 114.6 5:25 21.1 49.8
Sept.16 38.4 2:24 15.8 47.8
Sept.17 42.2 2:47 15.1 55.1
Sept.18 86.3 4:27 19.3 47.8
Sept.19 18.0 1:29 12.1 51.4
Sept.20 38.5 2:07 18.1 50.6
Sept.21 94.2 5:18 17.7 44.8
Sept.22 86.0 4:08 20.8 47.8
Sept.23 101.5 5:29 18.4 48.5
Sept.24 82.5 4:44 17.4 55.1
Sept.25 72.2 3:23 21.3 37.3

Hokkaido Ride - Day 13 - Going Inland

2006-10-03T06:44:00.000-07:00

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 24th, 2006

MASHIKE to URAUSU

83km 4h:44m

Im pretty sure most Japanese folk don't sleep in. Thats not a generalization, its a fact from what Ive seen. At 430am there were cars rolling around nearby and old men swinging their park golf drivers nearby. I headed out early too, killing down a 711 breakfast and coffee and heading inland on route 94. It climbed steadily through farmland until reaching the summit, Goryo Toge, and from there it was a plush downhill (hit 55KM/H) with no tunnels, perfect! These last 2 days Ive decided to ride further inland so as to avoid the tunnels that punished me my first two days of this ride. Fool me once....

I hit route 275 and barrelled on to Urausu town. I couldnt get my second wind today and felt low on energy throughout. The last few days have all been long, 94k, 86, 102, and todays 82. Thats 364k in only 4 days, time for testo patches. I got to Urausu amongst a festival like atmosphere. It wasnt a homecoming or welcoming parade for me, it was a Soba Noodle Festival. I tried to turn in toward the campground, happy to have made it and pretty tired out. A security / parking guard stopped me and said I couldnt enter until after 3pm because of the festival. Pardon? Its noon! I pleaded my case, but it was a no go. I had to vent alone for awhile to cool down, then decided to walk my bike down instead and told him I was just going to see the festival thats all. I brushed right by it, around the lake, and into the campground where many people were camping!! Parking my bike, I strolled into the registration office and signed up no problem! I realized there is another entry road to the campground, not just the festival side one, and the dipshit guard couldve very easily said, 'go up 150 metres and take that left, no problem', instead he was a robotic moron and couldnt function outside his parameters.

The Mefs came out to visit and we stuffed a few age-imos and beers down. The onsen was crowded and uncomfortable so I washed, quick soaked, and took off to eat my last box of KD on my last night here. As I was pouring my KD noodles into the boiling water, half of them suddenly spilled into the grass! With 007 like quickness I had the stove off, moved, and was cleaning noodles off in less than 10 seconds. Im not losing my last meal now, no way.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 12 - Camping Season Over?

2006-10-03T06:31:00.000-07:00

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 23rd, 2006

SHOSANBETSU to MASHIKE

102km 5h:29m

Another slow morning enjoying the sun, and headed on the road by about 830am. I expected an easy day today, just 68kms to Obira where I camped last week. The ride was awesome, and I pushed a little hard just to get there early, onsen, then chill all afternoon. At the bottom of the hill to the campground, I climbed up hungrily. Its a sweaty hill, taking 15 minutes of granny gear spinning. At the top though, a sign, reading, the season is done, until next year. I run into this problem in Japan alot, being a foreigner, not in synch with the 'clock of the seasons' that all Japanese are inherently born with. For example, the days after Obon Holiday (mid August), I hear the radio announcer say "from today, its Autumn". What? Its 29 degrees and Im on a beach. Come Sept.23 when it really does become fall, no matter the weather, no matter the heat, many folks will change their wardrobes to their 'fall' or 'fall and winter' wardrobe, and you'll notice it is also 'boot' season.

Back to the ride, I decided to rock on to Mashike, 30k or so down the coastline. I set up in the park once I got there, pretty well exhausted. Cruised over for sunset and had a ramen and a beer while sitting on the beach. After that went in to the hotel for a riva discount onsen, and then back to the tent to cook dinner. There was a HUGE spider, here on known as Big Scary Spider, next to my tent spinning a web in the tree I may not have been able to break through. I let him be, and found his little brother inside the tent so had to flick him outside. I don't mind these ones, the tiny red miniscule ones are a bit creapy though...

Mashike

Hokkaido Ride - Day 11 - Flipping the Bird

2006-10-03T06:11:00.000-07:00

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 22nd, 2006

HWY106 to SHOSANBETSU

86km 4h:08m

My roadside campout again gave me only a little sleep. At 4am the rain started so I packed up in the mens bathroom and was pedalling by 530am. The rain wasnt bad and after 25k it stopped. Hwy 106 didnt disappoint today, just a beautiful drive with Rishiri watching me from the right, but slowly fading into the back. I stopped for a great breakfast in Teshio in the sun, and chatted with a friendly old man out for a walk. The last few valleys were getting me tired. Then a semi truck buzzed me super close, sending me into a speed wobble and almost doing a header into the drop off ditch!! I don't snap much on a ride, but this asshole.... well I threw the bird up high and long so he'd see it in his mirror while he typed out a message on his cellphone and lit his 5th ciggy in the other hand, while 'driving'. Well wouldn't you know it, just then to my right is Sausage Man from last night waving at me holding his keitai, obviously having just taken a picture of me giving the bird, nice.

I set up at Shosanbetsu and headed for a long long long onsen. I chilled in the relax room again for a few hours and recharged everything. Just before sunset I cooked up some carbonera in a slight rain, then moved into my tent to eat. I treated myself to a can of beer, though spilled it twice inside. It'll just blend in with the smells the poor tarn2 has acquired...

Hokkaido Ride - Day 10 - Snotsicles

2006-10-03T05:29:00.000-07:00

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21st, 2006

RISHIRI to WAKKANAI to CAPE SOYA back to WAKKANAI to HWY 106 RESTSTOP

94.2km 5h:18m riding time

Ever slept with a strobe light above you? I did last night. The coin laundry shelter, while being a haven from the wind and rain, also has a motion sensor controlled flourescent light system. If I layed as still as possible, then had to scratch my head, BOOM the light would come on. I was scared to turn over. In other news, the typhoon that has thrown up season high waves here actually took an abrupt and unexpected hard right turn over Hokkaido before hitting us here. It went over Asahikawa and on into the ocean.

Since we were packed up fully last night, the getaway was a breeze today. I was riding by 645am and the 15k to the terminal was actually a perfect wake up. On the ferry Yuki and I started to talk routes and look at the maps, but the sea had other ideas, rocking the ferry back and forth. For a guy who never saw the ocean until I won a free trip to Mexico when I was 22, the ocean still wigs me out fairly regularly. It must be the fear of the unknown, and especially the power the ocean wields. We slept on the floor for part of the 1h40m ferry trip, then said goodbyes from the dock. He had to go get a new rear tire put on his motorbike, the one he has has no rubber, no wire, no tread at all in some places, and he has duct taped a loop of tape around the tire to make it last a bit more.

I was full of optimism, and took off towards Cape Soya, Japans northernmost point. It was about 31kms to get there, and felt pretty smooth, a bit of a tailwind but lots of sun too. At Soya there werent many tourists either, since the wind had picked up considerably and was close to Fort Macleods "rip the car doors off" type of wind. I took a few pictures (like the one above) and turned right around, unable to even open my bag for a snack. The return to Wakkanai was.... easily the lowest point of the trip. The wind sapped everything from me. It was unrelenting, it was giving me a facial for 2 and a half hours steady. I could go perhaps 10km/h for long stretches, thats like a slow jog! I cursed, I stopped and dropped my head to my handlebar to contemplate why, and then Id look up the coastline and see how far it was to go still, and drop my head back down deflated. Im not exagerrating here, it was hell. I wished I had not chosen an out and back route today on a bike tour. I wished I was anywhere but here, stuck in a headwind, going towards a city (Wakkanai) that I don't care for whatsoever (from here on in it will be called ShitHole). The wind reminded me of growing up, of all the hats I lost to the wind in AB, and of the fact that wind is a big reason why I moved out of soutehrn AB. It saps your energy, no saps isnt the right word, it drains, it STEALS your energy. A hill, I can handle. A hill is a challenge, and at some point in your trip or your life, you can reap the benefits of that hillclimb by enjoying the downhill. A hillclimb is a metaphor for life. Then what is wind? I arrived at my beacon of hope, the Seicomart on the outskirts of Wakkanai and walked in broken down. I had snotsicles frozen all over my face and my cheeks were caked in salt from my sweat that insta-dried.

Re-nourished and re-charged, I decided I didn't want to climb that big hill up to ShinrinKoen (day 4 camp), because Id feel like I did nothing today but come across on the ferry. After a quick supply run I searched out route 106. When I crested a hill and saw ahead the islands of Rishiri and Rebun, and the ocean, I was stoked. From here, I knew there were no campgrounds within reach, and also that Id be pedalling a solid 100k and 10 hrs today, but I was so happy to be back on the coastline heading home. Route 106 is unreal, so beautiful. At 5pm I hit upon a rest stop with a sign pointing inland 9k to a campground. But my gas tank was empty, I knew I was roughing it in a parking lot again tonight, right here. Watched the sunset between Rishiri and Rebun (see pic below) and then talked with a 52 yr old Japanese guy from Sapporo. He showed me his entire cell phone photo collection. Weird? Yes. I don't mind talking with someone after pedalling so long alone. We chatted about photos and bikes for a good 45 minutes, then he said, "do you like sausage?". This may be a gay bar pickup line, I dont know, but then he pulled out a couple of freeze wrapped sausages (salami) and gave me some baby cheese to eat them with. I think he just wanted to talk to someone too, and to contribute somehow.

I set up my tent on the roof, a terraced deck. The wind had other ideas though and I had to set up next to a vending machine on the ground. Starving after the long brutal day, I curled up in a stairwell and fired up my stove to cook some curry and rice which took all of 30 seconds for me to inhale. Just exhausted...

Hokkaido Ride - Day 9 - Rishiri

2006-10-03T05:16:00.000-07:00

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 20th, 2006

RISHIRI

39k 2h:07m

Ferries down and out today too! As they say in Japanese, "shoganai", loosely meaning "whatever happens happens, it can't be helped now". Alot of times in Japan it's used as excuse for a person apathy, but in situations like this, it's a great phrase.

I found internet for the first time this trip in the library, though my yahoo wouldnt open up, and it was one of those ultra secure connections that doesnt allow any outgoing info/mail/messages, only for reading and researching. Today was the Thailand military coup, so I was eager to find out some news if it'll affect my upcoming trip, as well as see if my travel agent had emailed. The computer network manager from upstairs understood my plight, and actually let me up into their OFFICE to check my mail so I could send a mail out! What generousity. Here I am, looking quite scrubby with a half beard and bike shorts, sitting amongst cubicles of salarymen, all trying to hide their curious looks at me. In the end, Yahoo still wouldn't open up, hence I've switched to gmail since. I felt sick after a few hours using the computer though, its been nice having so much time outdoors on this trip, rather than organizing, mailing, researching, planning...

The rest of the day was spent cruising up then back down the west side of the island. I went to the spring again to fill up my water bottle and camelbak, nice cold water. I came across this small shrine on the ocean cliffs below, during sunrise it must be so nice.

Yuki and I again are sleeping on the benches indoors as the typhoon is supposedly still coming, slowly. We packed up everything for a quick getaway in the morning to catch the first ferry.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 8 - Turning Gilligan

2006-10-03T04:52:00.000-07:00

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19th, 2006

RISHIRI (Mikaeridai Koen)

18km 1h:29m

Two years ago today was the 1st Sapporo Terry Fox Run, seems like alot longer than that. I've had lots of time to reminisce, since I have slept perhaps 30minutes. Late last night, the rain became harder as the wind started bending my tent a few new ways. I've had my tent 11 yrs, a classic MEC Tarn 2 that rarely lets me down, but even I know that it's possible for it to snap a pole or rip open at any time. At 1am, I pulled an emergency E-vac. That probably sounds pretty extreme, but when you're shuttling your things from in your tent to the coin laundry shelter, then trying to unpeg your tent in the rain, while also having your tent NOT blow away...it sure felt extreme. I put it up next to the shelter a little out of the wind, but still couldn't sleep. I moved in to the shelter and decided if I can't climb Rishiri-Fuji (one of my goals I had in mind when planning the trip), then I might as well get back to the mainland and roll on, rather than be stuck on the island when the ferries stop. At 3am there I was doing what any bike touring camper does, laundry. I had to guess at a few of the machines kanji characters and play pictionary with the dryer, but it worked in the end. I have a deep down fear of dryers still though, since coming to Japan. I hate having my clothes shrunk. Hate it. When I visit Canada, I hang all my clothes unless I am sure they cant shrink. It was great to get 500kms of sweat finally washed out of my 2 shirts/2shorts/3 pairs of underwear/3pairs of socks. I boiled up some tea and a cup of corn soup and cleaned all the mold out of my camelbak spout and tube, the stuff that grows in there, sick!

I checked with the ferry and there was only one, and it just departed, with a mass exodus of tourists who feared like I did, of being stranded. Thus there I was, stranded with a day or twos fuel left for cooking, and basically a sitting duck while the typhoon slowly headed directly for the island. The day wasn't that bad, just super windy, but sunny. There's a viewpoint called MikaeruDai Koen, its 6k up the road, and 800m higher in elevation. I decided to give it a go and grunted up it. Beautiful view from the top, and its actually at Station 3 of 10 on the climbing route (alot of mountains in Japan are divided into 10's, for reference/scale while you're ascending). The ride down....COOKED. It was 50mins UP, and 10 mins DOWN.

The afternoon was spent hanging out reading on the deck watching some of the biggest waves I've ever seen come in, just massive! Even the locals were coming out to the coastline to see (and hear) them. Had another great onsen and talked to some funny local guys who figure it's Canadian beef that is powering me on the bike trips....what I'd do for an Alberta Steak... Yuki and I took the tents down and decided to sleep on the benches IN the coin laundry since the Typhoon was due at 3am (scheduled?..).

Hokkaido Ride - Day 7 - Lapping Rishiri Island

2006-10-02T07:07:00.000-07:00

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18th, 2006

REBUN to RISHIRI

86.3km 4h:27m

Another early wake up, fully rested now. After inhaling a double egger I rolled the 6k to the ferry to catch a ride to Rishiri Island, just 19kms away. I chose the earlier ferry that went to the further port on purpose, since I thought I'd have time to bike the 15k to the other port where I'd be camping, KutsuGata. It ended up being somewhat pointless as I arrived at Kutsugata at the same time as the later ferry. After checking out some campsites, I decided on the one that is near the coastline, it has a shelter which may be useful in a storm (as well as coin laundry inside, its been 7 days of sweating with no washes....).

I talked to the Ferry Terminal lady who advised me of Typhoon 13 on its way towards us, maybe hitting by tomorrow or the next day! I decided right then to roll out and do my planned lap of Rishiri Island (58k) in case there was no chance of it tomorrow. The winds were crazy strong, and it wasn't altogether enjoyable. The light was bad for pics, and the wind sapped my energy. One thing Rishiri does very right, is taking care of its cycling road. They built 3-4 huge gap spanning bridges solely for the use of cyclists!! We're talking 60m high here. To get to it though was a climb at 14% slope, but once cruising through the trees its amazing. At 80k I was powered out and had to stop for a powergel and water break behind a wind break. Arriving back at the campsite I saw Yuki (met him on Rebun at Kushuko) from Tokyo, only two of us camping here! Had my first onsen and bath in 4 days, had to peel the dirt off! KD for dinner which he wasn't too fond of, more for me I guess. Got into the tent at 10pm, which is when the rain started.....

Hokkaido Ride Day 6 - Rebun Island

2006-10-02T05:34:00.000-07:00

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 17th, 2006

REBUN ISLAND

42.2km 2h:47m

Ahh the long awaited 'easy' island days are here finally. I slept in a bit and cooked up a mean egg sandwich and sipped coffee while reading after. By around 1030am I was packed up having decided to give the islands other campsite a try. While giving my trailer pins and QR's another once-over, I could feel I had a pinch in my sock, or a bunched up part. Might as well fix it now before I get pedalling, I take my bike shoe off and realize my sock is fine, just as a huge beetle (looked like Mushiking!) parachutes out of my shoe and scurries off. Wonder how long he'd have lasted if I'd left him under my big toe.

I'm realizing that I'm far more used to bugs after a week of camping. I have managed to NOT kill a single one so far. No I'm not turning into a devout Buddhist, but this is their territory. I'm sleeping in the grass/dirt, which is their home. Even if they get in my tent, I just get them back outside. So far Im being tolerant, we'll see how long that lasts. Crows on the other hand, they're like rats with wings. It doesn't help that kids throw scraps of food for them, and they have been stalking me down at each camp. I barely left my dinner tonight to wash something and one was swooping in already. That said, I give crows full credit as they're definitely at least twice as smart as most Granum folk.

I biked to the northern tip of Rebun, the tourist sight called Cape Scoton. It's a main sight for any bus tourists on the island, complete with the group photo bleachers and 5 minute photo stop. Back along the main road, I decided to head across to Nishi Ue Domari. It was a grunt of a climb, then a swift down to a small fishing village. The lookout from above was beautiful (see picture above). Once back on the main road I stuck to the coastline heading back south towards the ferry (and tonight's camp). I took some side roads through old seemingly deserted towns, but just when you'd think a house was abandoned, someone would walk past the window or come out of the front door. I saw old men and ladies laying out todays kelp on the rocks to dry. I loved making eye contact with a few of those old guys, because just for that one second they're looking into your life and trying to figure out what you're about and what you're doing, and at the same time I'm thinking the same thing.

I arrived at the campsite by 3 and set up right away. This camp has the wooden platforms which gives a better shot at a level sleep, but the downfall is you can lose things in between the 2x4's, which Im prone to do. Sure enough, just as I was lifting my biking shoes to move them out of the way, they caught on that pain in the ass PIN from my trailer (the all important one that I can not lose). I heard it catch and go up in the air, but couldn't see it. Then listened to it rattle between to boards and fall to the ground, with no idea exactly where at. I crawled under the foot and a half crawl space trying to find it to no avail. I had to give up after the worms and spiders crawling around with me were getting edgy.

The spot was perfect, leaning back with a great meal of potatoes and pasta, and sipping a tall Asahi.

Tugboat working hard at the NE coast of Rebun.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 5 - Rebun Island

2006-09-28T01:59:00.000-07:00

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 16th, 2006

WAKKANAI to REBUN

38km 3h:44m

The morning dew was everywhere, soaking the tent and the picnic table down. I skipped breakfast today and just boiled up some water to drip through my coffee filter while I packed up. It was only 5k to the ferry terminal down that steep hill I climbed on empty last night. The ferry from Wakkanai to Rebun was fairly pricey (3410yen) when compared to the $10 it costs to roll from Vancouver to Van Island by bike. It was a pretty uneventful ride, except for my happiness at getting out of Wakkanai and already at Rebun by Day 5. An older lady asked me, "Can I talk?", when I had maps strewn about and iPod half in. I obliged but all she really did was mispronounce Saskatchewan over and over.

The ferry reminded me of my first ferry going to Victoria in 2001, and again in 2002 with Ood and Jerry while they got tanked and spilt chips all over my car, good times. That road trip was awesome, for one reason, because Chang ate MacPoulet with me and I caught it on film. The last time I was on Van Island was last October for a quick trip to Nanaimo after a few days in Vancouver and Whistler, another great trip that was.

When we docked up I took the south road first to the point where it ends (see picture above). You can tell that this area certainly hasn't been caught up in tourism like other parts of the island. The road is one lane, narrow, running along the ocean, with old wooden houses lining the way. From the end I rode up to the small village and into the Seicomart. It may seem like I always go to Seico, because I do. Convenience stores in Japan are unreal. You can get fresh meals (bentos), sushi, onigiri (rice balls), groceries, the usual junk food, plus booze (which you can get individually in as many as you want), and not expensive either. I recalled being stuck out last night at Wakkanai with no drinks/food so I stocked up on four tallcans and some food this time. The coastal rode heading north is beautiful and so quiet. I noticed the absence of the truck tires humming by me right away, a stark difference to yesterdays jaunt. The towns seem nearly deserted and half the buildings are shuttered up. It took some time and a few wrong turns, but I found Kushu Lake Campground. It was nice to set up before 1pm for once and dry everything else. The camp manager insisted I take a cling wrapped fish as a 'service' after I checked in...I tried to refuse but when he found out I had salt and a frying pan, he insisted. It ended up being pawned off on another camper later on.

Remember the Muppet Show? Now think of those two old guys that heckled the entire show from the top balcony. Their names were Statler and Waldorf in case you're racking your brain trying to remember. I found their Japanese counterparts today. These two roll in with huge tripods and cameras to take a fun shot of the lake signboard with them in it. One of them hung upside down on top of it arms outstretched, I don't know how he didn't slip a disk as he's in his 60's. I started talking with them and it turned into about a full hour long conversation in Japanese about my bike, trailer, their fishing, their photos. They loved the fact that I quit my job so that I could bike tour around for a while. A little while later while I was frying my corn on the cob and sipping a Heine, I was called over to their mini truck. They had converted a mini K truck box into a full kitchen suite with cupboards etc, but barely enough room for one to sit cross legged inside of it and cook away. Their second vehicle was a van in which they'd sleep and carry gear. They're from Kyoto on a road trip. Anyways, Statler gave me a huge grilled Salmon! Anyone who knows me, knows I ate my first ever fish when I was 24 yrs old (5 yrs ago), a victim of growing up on the prairies I guess. Now I dont mind the odd fish, and after boiling up KD and curry the past week I was primed for a feast on the salmon, it didn't disappoint.

Yet again, I was in bed by 7pm when I heard rumours there was going to be super heavy rains coming.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 4 - Russian Culture Shock in Wakkanai

2006-09-27T21:54:00.000-07:00

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15th, 2006

SHOSANBETSU to WAKKANAI
115km 5h:25m

Just a long, long, day. The coastline from Shosanbetsu heading north is still amazing, and there must've been a tailwind because I could keep it at 30kph pretty easily. This northern part of the coastline is obviously less travelled, and there are alot more farms around. My keitai (don't buy Foma) kept dying so fast, I had to buy a battery charger at the 7/11 so I could call the travel agent and sort out my upcoming flight to Thailand. I reached Toyotomi at 70k or so and had a break and Papico at the Seicomart. The clerk in there was a super nice guy who told me of a campground 15k away, or I could carry on 40k to Wakkanai. My competitive side got the better of me and I decided to roll on to Wakkanai against my body's (and rapidly deteriorating ass bones) wishes.

I reached Wakkanai city by 4pm (sun set comes by 6 here). I found a 100yen Shop (like a Dollar Store, but about 1000 times better), and parked my bike to resupply inside. Only then did I notice the stares by the Russian sailors all around. I make a point of nodding, saying hey, smiling... they made a point of staring me down, mumbling, and generally looking angry. They looked like hardened men who couldn't see or understand the logic of someone deciding to quit his job to ride his bike around for awhile, and carry all he needs with him. I felt decidely UNEASY in this place. Being a foreigner in Japan (me), has definitely changed me in some way. Being almost exclusively around Japanese has lulled me into a sense of security maybe. I know of an expat American who swears he feels a hundred times safer here than back home. It was almost like a minor case of culture shock. My first time returning to Canada after 1 yr in Japan, was for Christmas 04. I remember having breakfast in San Francisco Airport, jet lagged, tired, and slinking down into a corner watching all these giant white folk lumbering about, and I know this is generalizing, but I couldn't believe how big everyone was. Here now in northern Japan, with foreigners all around me, maybe I understood for a second how some Japanese folk may feel, encountering a foreigner in their all-Japanese looking land. Like the song, have I been "turning Japanese" the past two and a half years?

Well I searched in vain at hardware shops to find a 12v battery for my speedometer, then proceeded to the only campjo around, ShinrinKoen. A map is flat, and on a map, the route looks flat, right? I was at over 100k for the day, mentally exhausted, and now I was staring up at the largest hill/small mountain around, the campjo was on top of it. Angered, and eager to get this

day done with and get some sleep, I charged up the hill. It was one of those hills where even in granny gear, you are barely able to push. Once I made it to the top, exhausted and sweaty, I

got to the campground just as darkness came down. I definitely earned a coke or an aquarius with that effort I told myself.

After searching around, I was crestfallen to see there were no vending machines in sight, only at the bottom of the hill perhaps...... I boiled water and ate a double helping of curry and rice before falling flat out asleep in less than 3 seconds.

(photo) Wakkanai city and ferry terminal view from atop the campground hill

Hokkaido Ride - Day 3 - Ororon Coastline

2006-09-27T20:16:00.000-07:00

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 14TH, 2006

OBIRA to SHOSANBETSU 68km 3h:43m

I took a nice slow morning today cooking up an egg sandwich and enjoying the coffee. This campground has a great lookout tower where the picture to the left was shot from. It's looking north up the west coastline of Hokkaido, at today's route. I rolled out by 10am, and tried to take the service road on the way out. At the bottom of the hill it was gated shut though, so I had to climb back up and go the long way around. I've got nothing but time though. The coastline along the Japan Sea was unreal today, absolutely a perfect day. I went through Tomamae, Haboro, and in the village of Shosanbetsu I asked a Nurse outside for help. She pointed me towards an awesome campground (free too) that also had a nice onsen. The onsen is a must after a day in the saddle. An onsen is a big bathing area, separated into male and female rooms of course. It's usually fueled by an underground hot spring, and sometimes touts it's distinctive 'healing' powers and special minerals. You always (unless you're an old Japanese man who thinks he's above that) shower/shampoo/soap/rinse BEFORE entering the onsen pools with the other naked guys. My first ever onsen back in December 2003, I was petrified. I had been taught the basics, wash and become clean first, then enter the onsen baths. I was with a Japanese friend who spoke no English, and at that point I spoke next to zero Japanese. I sat on the Lilliputian stool and washed down completely. But my friend hadn't yet finished washing, so I thought, damn maybe I haven't done it right (enough?). I proceeded to soap/shampoo/wash/rinse a second time, not wanting to offend anyone. After that we entered the ultra hot onsen waters, where we stayed for a long time, having nothing to talk about, each of us believing that the other must just really like the heat.. it became a war of attrition, each thinking the other would get out when we were "supposed" to get out. When we both finally did emerge from the waters, I nearly collapsed with a head rush. After some time though, most people do fall for the onsen culture, and I admit it's on my Japan Top 5 list without a doubt.

After setting up my tent above the ocean side cliffs, I bee lined it to the onsen. It was great to finally shave (what would be my last shave for the next 10 days), and the other good thing about onsens is they have a 'resting area', for after your bath. I lay back on the tatami and cushions, plugged in all my electronics that needed re charging (camera, phone), and even ordered up a Nama (draft beer in a mug).

After a spaghetti cook up during sunset, I went into the Star Observatory also right next to the campjo. On the top level is a shutter that rolls up, and a rotating top, which houses a 65cm telescope, HUGE. The guy explained it all to me in the simplest Japanese that he could, and was super helpful even though the sky was clouded a bit. He showed me a gas explosion, exploding star, and some of the constellations that he could see. It always impresses me in Japan, many times a worker will go to great lengths to show you a good time, to help you out, and it's not to get extra tips, because tipping is not customary at all. One time in a Lawson convenience store I was late for a train so I left a 5 yen coin and ran out (5 cents), the employee called after me and ran after me that I had forgotten it. It's people that help you out though that you want to tip, you want to show that you appreciate the extra lengths that they went to. I don't agree with businesses in toursity areas of N.America which pay their employees minimum wage, and then tack on tip charges automatically to the bill. A tip is for service above and beyond, not for someone with hat on backwards pants falling down, slurring speech and who doesn't make an effort. When I worked in tourism for a long time, I couldn't stand people who expected a large tip, when they hadn't done anything to deserve it but their job. That's just my little rant on gratuities, if someone does a good job, show them you appreciate it, whether its with money, words, a deep bow, a smile, or a handshake.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 2 - Your First One

2006-09-27T18:05:00.000-07:00

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13TH, 2006.
ATSUTA to OBIRA 107km 6h:08m

Noone forgets the first time, you're panicky, nervous, excited, don't know what to expect.. and then you enter closing your eyes and holding your breath. Tunnels are one of the biggest challenges to a bike tour in Japan. The bubble money of the 80's convinced every MP to build massive theme parks, dam every (and I mean every) river in Japan, and build bridges, big spanning bridges, and rather than blow aside any mountainside, they would first reinforce the landscape with godawful concrete slabs holding the land down and set up landslide/avalanche guard rails, and then, they made tunnels. Tunnels everywhere. "What? There's a 40m stretch where we can't get around? Build a tunnel!". Tunnels of course, save alot of hill climbing, at a huge cost surely. Tunnels for cars = good times. I remember as a kid going on weekend camptrips with the family, Griswold style. There was one tunnel that was semi long going into BC, and we'd all rip the windows down in the car and Dad would lay on the horn for us to hear the echo. Yes, we were easily amused back then I guess. Since coming to Japan though, tunnels have become second nature. My civil engineering studies from so long ago still force me to think about how they built the tunnel, or how the forces are keeping that bridge up. Tunnels for bikes = usually hellish and life threatening. But I've got ahead of myself here....

After a horrible fitful sleep, hearing trucks rolling in and past, people talking, vending machines humming, I was up just after 5am. There was a small green van parked near me, in it was a middle aged Japanese guy from Shiga-ken who was traveling around Hokkaido on a month long solo tour. It's always nice to meet Japanese people who are breaking the norm, who don't mind being the proverbial 'nail that stands out', but don't get nailed back down into the 'harmony'. When I went to hook up my B.O.B. trailer, I realized one of the pins was missing. It must've fallen out since the rubber safety band is so old that it deteriorated and broke off (even though I just bought this in June....). Mr.Shiga-ken helped me search on hands and knees through the grass and gravel to no avail. The pin (as you'll hear about later....alot) is crucial to the trailer staying attached to the quick release on my back tire. Without it, or even with only one side clamped to the bike...well it would be ugly. I had one spare that I now set up on the bike, and he grabbed his fishing wire to make sure I wouldn't lose it again, and even put bright green tape on it so if it does fall off again, it'll be easier to find. This is all well before 7am. One last check, and I found it! Safe for now....

I rolled off north towards Rumoi, again not having a sniff of a clue where I would stay. Gear issues seemed to be the theme of the day though, when my speedometer mysteriously stopped working and I momentarily panicked about how far along I was on my route. It started again after I took all other electro-magnetic devices out of my handlebar bag and moved them to my backpack. This wireless speedometer is starting to become like one of those TVs, where you have to set up a coat hanger on the top for an antenna, and hold your hand at 45degrees NW and cannot have any spoons or forks in the vicinity, touchy little bugger.

The hills up to Hamamasu were tough, and had me sweating at a steady clip. Then the tunnels, oh the tunnels. 3000m, 2400m, 2800m, you name the distance, they built one to match. Its interesting when you're halfway through the tunnel, there's sometimes an exit sign lit up in the musky air saying 1500m to that one and 1900m to the other one... comforting. Some tunnels have a small sidewalk built up, luxury ones have a guard rail to protect you from the keitai (cell phone) typing drivers bearing down on you. The norm is a sidewalk just wide enough for a bike/trailer set up, while my left arm brushes the wall and looks like charcoal by the end. It actually takes considerable concentration to not wobble or weave at all for that long of a time, especially with the echo that reverberates around you when a vehicle approaches. At times you think it must be a massive truck coming by the sound, but then its a little Cube Car. The sound is absolutely terrifying though, I admit it. There were times I would hear a truck coming in hot and I'd stop and hunker against the wall almost fetal-position-like until it passed. Many tunnels actually don't have a sidewalk, only a 1 foot shoulder space of broken down 40 yr old pavement. When I hit these tunnels, I tighten the bandana around my face (the air quality CAN'T be that good), I check all my flashing lights (backpack, seat post, headlight, and valves), and I bear down and sprint through it praying the cars behind me show mercy. The last tunnel before I rounded the coastline to Mashike was under construction. They waved me through their lane (they were only checking for cracks and leaks), so I had the entire construction lane to hum past and not worry! Oh the bliss..

Mashike is one of my favourite little fishing towns in Japan. Japan Inc. definitely left it in it's wake, but it's simplicity and beauty have held. One year ago to the week I was here for the first time with Jaysee and Mef when we camped out near Shokanbetsu Dake. We decided for a midngiht climb up the mountain to be near the summit when the sun came up. It was a hair-raising hike with only headlamps to light the way, and music/country/city word games to keep us from thinking about what those two little eyes that lit up belonged to back there. For the challenge it provided us, it remains one of our favourite mountains. Today I peddled through remembering this, and stopped by the river where the salmon are all valiantly trying to get from the mouth of the river upstream, attracting crowds of locals coming out to see the yearly spawn.

I was on my way to Rumoi, most tunnels far behind me, enjoying the perfect sun and the shining Japan Sea on my left, when I saw a car stopped on the road ahead. The lady had crossed the lanes and was standing on my sidewalk ahead. I had a weird feeling. Suddenly as I'm almost past her, she flags me down with, "Stop stop, Canada?". I slowly look back to the big CDN flag on the back of my trailer, "Umm, yesss". It turned out her daughter Eriko lives in Victoria, BC, and she was calling her daughter from the side of the highway, to Canada, so she could talk to me. Eriko gets on the line, and our conversation was pained and awkward, I'm not sure, were we supposed to hit it off? Talk politics? I don't know still. She asked, "So like, did you meet my mom in the store or campground or something?". I said, "Oh no, she just pulled me over on the highway while she was going to work". She was mortified and asked that I forgive her mom for being so weird. It was a funny story and broke up my day so I didn't really mind. Her mom just gets excited about Canada and is obviously proud of her daughter living there and her ability to speak English (fluently it sounded). Crazy Mom then presented me with some bread snacks which I happily accepted and I waved (and bowed) as I rode off.

I could've stopped in Rumoi, but there's not a good onsen nearby, a crucial requirement for where I'd stay each night. I had heard from Wakako (she's from Rumoi) that the next town up the coastline called Obira has a nice onsen and campground nearby. I trudged on, semi delirious in the heat and running low on energy. I found Yuttarikan Onsen and happily parked my bike and went in for a bath and a soak. I'll explain onsens in another less lengthy blog posting, so stay tuned. It was a great soak and I felt refreshed. I watched another great sunset, then noticed the camp ground was at the top of a hill, a big hill. It took awhile to get to the top, and by then, I was dripping again, thereby negating all positive cleansing effects the onsen had afforded me. The campjo master was a funny old man, charged me for 2 days. I said in my politest 'correcting' Japanese, that I was only staying one night and would be leaving early tomorrow morning. He replied that that may be true, but youre here today, AND youll be here tomorrow, that's two days, 600 yen please. Don't mess with rules and order in this country I guess. 6 hours riding today has left me spent...and yet another early sleep for me.

Hokkaido Ride - Day 1 - First Day Has Got To Be The Hardest

2006-09-27T04:16:00.000-07:00

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH, 2006
SAPPORO to ATSUTA - 51km 2h58m

I finally pulled away from the house by about 1130am, the trailer feeling awfully loaded, and the bag within it was crammed as tight as possible. A great feeling to be heading out on the road, north to a place I've wanted to see and explore ever since I landed in Hokkaido 2 1/2 yrs ago.

Getting out of Sapporo with full gear loading me down, that was a challenge to start with. I rode the 12 up to route 5 where I turned north. It eventually turns into route 231 which goes up along the coastline. Rather than dodge school kids and grannies on the sidewalk I stayed mostly in the mini bike lane, but its usually crammed with cars or taxis. At one point I could see a bus pass me, start to pull in to the left to pick a person up, meaning I wouldve been cut off harshly and had to somehow bunnyhop up on the curb. He showed shocking courtesy though by actually stopping IN the driving lane and letting the people walk the extra 4 feet. I was sure to give him a small bow and a wave after.

Once I got up to Ishikari and had a view of the ocean, my odo was reading about 25k's. It was a weird feeling, having no idea whatsoever of where I'd be sleeping that night. I got to a small town called Atsuta and inquired about the campsite, only it was closed for the season. An old guy on a bike told me I could pretty well set up anywhere and suggested the sunset viewpoint lookout. I took his advice and relaxed back while the Kraft Dinner simmered, Day 1 reward.

And I'm OFF!

2006-09-11T17:42:00.000-07:00

Allright, all those months ago when I hatched up this travelling plan, its finally coming to fruition. That may not be grammatically correct, but I don't care about now. Today I leave for the Hokkaido portion of my ride.

I spent a full Monday packing, organizing, last minute things, booking visas for SE Asia... logistics! I'm typing this with my fully packed bag urging me towards the door. I'm planning to ride up along the coastline to Cape Soya, Risshiri, and Rebun Islands. Depending on when I get my flight for Nepal will determine when I come back here, but Im guessing itll be about a 16 day ride.

Anyone going to meet up for some booze around the whisperlite? Im out.

Sapporo to Otaru Shizen no Mura

2006-09-11T17:36:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 26th, 2006.

Off to meet the Smefs at the campsite today. The ride through Sapporo city took a rong rongu time, and I couldnt wait to have a view of the ocean by Zenibako area. It seemed like I was climbing and climbing for so long, only slightly though. But once I did summit out and see the water, there was an awesome downhill right up into Otaru. I was passing cars along the side, or maybe they were stopped, but either way, it felt fast. A bit of a maze to find my way towards the Shizen no Mura concentration camp. It's located high up on Tengu Yama, on which you can drive or take a ropeway. To bike up it, they look at you funny. They looked at me funny. The climb was a good 8k from the town, and the last 3-4 k was super steep to the camp site. It was a good enough place to visit once, but not again. Rules all over, exit and entry time limits, only cart your goods in, no bbqs in these areas..blah blah. Over managed yet again. Drove down to the onsen in town, where the lady taking my money for her over-hyped lukewarm bath found herself justified to question my nationality (are you Russian?? American?), as well as my skills (do you know how to use an onsen?, shower first, wash, rinse, then enter the tub). Yes I learned this all when I moved to Japan 2 1/2 years ago, thanks racist. Go back to your pervy comic book.

Nice day of riding though, thats the bottom line though right! That and the fact that Smef kept me up for 10 tall cans all night... headache in the morning.

55.3km 2:55m

Obon Day 4 - Setana to Shimamaki

2006-09-01T06:01:00.001-07:00

33.2 km. 1h 34m 33s riding.

Actually this wasn't supposed to be a ride day. The people I was with, I figured I should throw my bike on the roof rack and spend a day when they didn't have to wait for me at some spot. But driving along the coast, I lasted about 8k and said pull over. I know, selfish maybe, but it was a crsytal clear day, the Japan Sea was a pefect blue, no wind, I had to do some coast riding. As soon as I started riding once geared up, I killed a Pocari, also realizing Id left my change behind in the car.

There were tunnels galore on this ride. So many I started feeling sick and craving the open air views badly. Thank god the crew stopped at Shimamaki Michi No Eki where I could gear down and get a mixed soft cream in me. Nice enough riding for today.

The 4 day trip ended with 276kms in 13:04:38. I know, Im a stats nerd, Im sure you can live with it if youve read this far.

Obon Day 3 - Oshamambe to Setana

2006-09-01T06:01:00.000-07:00

71.5km. 2h 55m 11s riding time. Avg spd 24.4 (tour?). Max 54.3kph.

OSHAMAMBE --> SETANA/KITA HIYAMA

Today there was only one word for how it felt, gooooood. Bolted out of the campsite and down to the ocean, before cutting right to cross over the narrowest part of Hokkaido (60k wide). There was only one pass today leading up to a dam. Knowing there was only one, I pushed up it at a good pace, and inhaled the snickers at the summit. My pace/supply car was still behind me so I had motivation to keep it going. Kept things going at a strong clip the entire ride today (24.4kph), with the sun blazing down at 31 degrees yet again. At one point I crossed through an old village with ancient farming equipment scattered around, an old lady hanging laundry, and next to her, a full size tennis court! It had seen better days, but it was right on her farm in the middle of nowhere.

I arrived in Setana on the OTHER coastline after only a few hours but still felt pretty tired out. For some bizarre reason, most shops close on the biggest holiday weekend here, losing out on the millions of tourist yen that come through. Found a local restaurant with peeling up linoleum in all 4 corners and for yet another unknown reason, I ordered a spicy curry rice. I sweat more in that restaurant than on the ride!

The camp was at Makomanai Dam. Nice place, but bugs as big as small helicopters. Thank god there was a screen tent to use or Id have been in hell. I laid in the tent for a nap and when I got up there was a perfect pool of sweat outline under my starfished body, soooo hot this day. I rode the 9 k into the Kita Hiyama onsen (which is in my top 5 now, even has a slide in it). Felt good after that and the bbq felt even better.

Obon Day 2 - Toya-ko to Oshamambe

2006-09-01T06:00:00.000-07:00

70.9km. 3h 43m 23s of wheel spinning tunnel praying time. Avg Spd 19.0kph. Max 59kph

I slept a full TWELVE hours last night along the shore of Toya Ko. Some crazy waves were coming in yet again last night, sounded like they were almost hitting the tent.. it reminded me of last summer when camping along the shoreline of Shikotsu Ko. I had thought it a great idea to be as close as possible to the lake edge, just to sleep near and wake up with the full view of the lake out of the vestibule. Of course by 2 am, the waves are coming in hard (Ill remind you, its NOT the ocean, its a lake). I couldnt sleep without waking up from the thoughts of water coming into my tent, so I re pitched it in the middle of the night on higher ground.

The ride started out rough after yesterdays metric century. I had a weird pain in the groin so I was probably paranoid that I'd pushed too hard and half my guts were coming out. I swung around the lake planning to cut up the hill but didnt see a single sign. I ended up at the Seico mart stocking up when an old man in a 05 Toya Marathon Shirt (I had same one) sparked up a conversation about where I'm going. Nice guy, and he got me onto a shortcut local road that led me towards the ocean where I needed to go. He looked in his 70's but runs in the Toya Ko Marathon every year he said proudly. Damn rights, Id be proud too. The old people in this country always amaze me.

I climbed up past Usu-zan, which last blew in the year 2000 causing a mass evacuation of the town and area. At about the summit I swung past the Nishiyama crater which is still smoking pretty good (like all you ciggy freaks). From there to ToyoUra it was downhill and sweet. Once I got to ToyoUra town, I realized I had to follow route 337 now all the way along the coastline, but it also meant crossing two mountain passes en route. There was many tunnels, which as Ive said before and will say again, are a double sided being. On one hand they save you from a massive hill climb, but on the other, youre stuck in a damp, dark, muggy, smoggy, little rock cylinder with no way out when that one moron driver decides to keep using his cell phone to email someone about a new Glay (gray?glay?gray?). There was one tunnel, where I secretly made a wish NEVER to die in a tunnel. It was narrow, the small 'sidewalk' was wide enough just barely for my handlebars while my left forearm (remember, driving on the left here) scraped the dirty wall. Sketchy is putting it lightly. I hammered through a few of those tunnels and at the other side woud pull over gasping with a racing heart. I made many of those wishes of not dying in a tunnel, can you imagine anything lonelier? Trapped, seeing the light far down at the other end, stinky, etc...

The two passes today took a bit out of me, not that theyre like Rogers Pass in Canada or anything, but the uphills were solid. I passed by alot of other cyclists today, all of whom always wave and say a bit as they pass. Motorbikes seem to also think theyre in the same 'brethren' as pedal bikes so they wave alot as well. When they pedal the same 1000k as some of those cyclists do, then theyre in, until then...

The road leading up to Oshamambe was right along the ocean. I could imagine it'd be pretty steady easy pedalling from here all the way down to Hakodate (an uber popular route). Its right along the water, nice. I recharged in Oshamambe with a 711 Omurice and latte before the last few K up to the campsite. I think it was called Oshamambe Koen, but either way its super green, really nice. I crashed by 930pm...

Obon Day 1 - Sapporo to Toya-ko

2006-09-01T05:58:00.000-07:00

SUNDAY, AUGUST 13th, 2006.

100.4 kms. 4hrs, 51mins, 20seconds of wheel turning riding time. One sore ass that was happy to dive into the lake at the end of this day.

What a ride! This Obon Holiday trip I have a support car carrying my necessary gear, meaning I can travel light, trailerless, and fast(?)er. The faster part definitely turned out to be untrue.

I was out the door by 9:30am feeling proud of getting my ass on the go already. I blew a bit of time though by staying along the Toyohira River too long and almost missing the branch off to Route 230. Thinking I could cut back, I climbed a long flight of red stairs carrying my bike, then got lost in a maze of a neighbourhood on top of a hill, in between 453 and 230. I didn't even know it existed, maybe it didn't, it was pretty hot already. It cost me a fair chunk of time, but this isn't the TdF either. After leaving Sapporo, I was reminded about the time of year, Obon.

Ahh Obon time, when each of the 120 million citizens of Japan take their vacation, or go to their small hometown, or go to their grandparents house, or just go to an onsen and call it a vacation...It's a nutshow and you have to be a nutshow just to want to travel during this time. I was never, EVER, happier to be on a bike then when I rode to the outskirts of Sapporo on the way to Jozankei, and saw a slow moving crush of vehicles. I passed at least 100 cubes/minis/civics with hot smoking sweaty people raising their stress levels up a notch. It reminded me of a NYC video I saw where a guy on a bike decides to prove how dumb all the car drivers are and rips through a tunnel with a video cam attached and gets it done in far less time. When I learn how to link, I'll put it on here, for now, just imagine. Getting to Jozankei was no problem, and I stopped at the Seicomart for a bite to eat and at the Onsen Foot Bath for a quick soak in the 31 degree sunshine. I realized I had downed 2 litres of water already. It was going to be a hot one. Jozankei Onsen Town was the 32k point, about an hour forty in. From here I knew the uphill to the summit of Nakayama Toge was next, and after that, a long downhill to Rusutsu and on to Toyako.

Feeling refreshed and refueled, the climb started out not too shabby towards Nakayama Toge. It was a long climb, and the heat started to break my spirit down a little. Its almost 20k from Jozan to the summit of the pass (831m), and took me about 1h 21mins. Heart avg 144 on the climb. A few of the tunnels wigged me out but good times nonetheless. At the summit I was sitting at 54kms, and drank down 2 pocaris and a milo (that's good shit!). I didn't realize just how good a chocolate milk in a vending machine can could taste. A massive crowd of people were on hand to eat up the local 'famous' delicacy, Jyaga-Imo (potatoes fried and skewered, tasty and they stick straight to the hips). It was so hot.. But the downhill was coming...

Down down down... Passing the odd car, concentrating on the shoulder lines, and cruising from the summit to Kimobetsu, 20kms only took 33mins! Max speed was 55.3kph. Funny how my heart was at 143 on a long downhill, mustve been too jacked up. It felt good to be already at 75 kms and not too tired out. From Kimobetsu, I was riding past Rusutsu when I heard a few people screaming. I looked up and just then one of the amusement parks rides was tipping a group of tourists upside down and they were all staring at me, back down at the ground, while they were tipped up 90 feet up...trippy. The rest of the ride was fairly flat, about 26kms taking an hour and 18 minutes. Once I caught site of Toya Ko, I was on fire though. There's a nice downhill winding road into the town, and then I swung right to the campsite (forgot the name). The tent was set up and lawnchairs out. I peeled outta my bike clothes and dropped into the lake next to some awesome kids who were acting out the last samurai with the 'swords' from their bug catchers. After an onsen up on the hill to relieve the chafe, I felt good, but sleepy. Didn't even last for the daily fireworks show at 845 at the lakeside, as I was in bed at 830 and asleep at 833.

Shikotsu-ko Bike/Camp - Day 1

2006-08-19T08:39:00.000-07:00

AUGUST 6th

Sapporo to Shikotsu-ko

This would be my first overnight bike tour, so of course the packing took a little longer than I expected. Ended up leaving at 1130 right when the day was at its hottest, it got up to 32 today! I was sweating up my fresh gear before I hit the road even. The ride was up, up, and hot. First I took Route 12 to the Toyohira River, cruised along it until I hit route 453 at Makomanakomanai. From there it got rough, right at that screwed up intersection with route 230, just a clusterfuck for a bike and trailer. Getting down through Ishiyama was nice, but then the hill climbs started, and then kept coming fast and furiously. Many times I looked down and saw a steady stream of sweat pouring off my nose, and anytime I adjusted my helmet another half cup would gush out, it was just so hot. A great climb up, though I was feeling the weight of my camping gear on my trailer. Elevation went from starting at about 10m, rising to 600m, then dropping down some. Before the first summit, an *old* guy rode up next to me. I emphasize old because he was at least 60, riding a Trek Livestrong edition roadbike, decked out and fast looking (youre not a sportsman in Japan unless you've got the gear!). Though he was a nice dude and was good enough to slow down to get me to the top then sailed off. By the way, his route today was Sapporo-Shikotsuko-Chitose-Eniwa-Sapporo. About 145k. Wicked. If that isnt motivation what is??? So then I hit 39k at the turnoff to the right so I could get to Okotan Campsite on the other side of Eniwa Dake. It turned giftshopgirl ugly at that point, rising up from 200metres in only 3k. I was going 4-5kph, barely crawling, and my head turning delirious like the later stages of a marathon. Got to the top summit eventually and killed all my water off, nearly 3 litres. But then I knew there was a big rip of a downhill right to the campsite, 500m or so downhill elevation drop. I was FLYING mate!! It turned out to be a great campspot, had an Onsen over at Marukoma (the one right in the lake) and crashed out by 930 after a beer, curry rice, and spaghetti...

Say it Ain't So Floyd!!

2006-07-27T20:08:00.000-07:00

No no no.... I wake up to read the days sports headlines and there blaring across the front of TSN.ca was "Landis busted for doping". Noooooo...why!?!? I hope and pray that the B sample proves it was a mistake, or another reason surfaces. The positive test comes from Stage 17, when he pulled off one of the most inspiring comebacks to claw back to striking distance of the yellow jersey. If it is true, I say eat it cycling. I feel bad for guys like Robbie, who *may* be clean, but their going to be tainted as well. The world expects superhuman feats, and maybe it pushed Floyd over the line after the now famous bonk on Stage 16. Maybe he did put the testosterone patch on his nuts that night and recovered faster than he would've normally. I prefer to believe not though, I won't dive onto the 'cheater!' bandwagon that fast. Landis published his 'power ratings' throughout the stage, and they were impressive, but not superhuman. He just held his strong pace for longer than the others thought he could. Many other leaders COULD have held that and probably have done it in training many times, but they banked on Floyd hitting the wall after such a disastrous day on Stage 16. I prefer to believe he dug deep and found the will to drop the hammer that day. And until further notice.....

2006-07-26T08:20:00.000-07:00

Lance Armstrong Nike Commercial

If this vid doesn't give you goosebumps you've got issues.

2006-07-26T08:11:00.000-07:00

Lance Armstrong-Time Trial-2005

Opening Time Trial of Armstrongs last Tour. Watch him blow past Jan.

First mini "Tour"

2006-07-10T00:30:00.000-07:00

Allright, up at 6:30am, and by the time I was packed up with trailer hitched on, it was 8:50. Might need to work on that prep time. It was my first time out with a load on the BOB Trailer, and with the front handlebar bag on too. I packed my tent, sleeping bag, goretex clothes, and some random tools in the BOB Bag on the trailer. I went straight up to the Toyohira River, hoping to stay out of traffic while I get used to a 1.6m trailer behind me. After 5k I stopped underneath a bridge to check the nuts n bolts, re-adjust some things, and get comfy. The river trail was nice, even in the constant mist and drizzle. I made it to Route 230 by Jozankei and then had to ride next to the traffic. It was a challenge to keep remembering the trailer behind me, especially at those times when you just want to bunnyhop up onto the sidewalk. I even got to do my first tunnels (they're everywhere in Japan), before arriving to Jozankei with a big shit eating grin on my face. A few pics then I found an onsen foot bath. Its a warm hot spring bath, just to soak your feet in after a hard day walking the tourist shops (or biking there from Sapporo). There was a couple in there from Kushiro (far far away), I could tell they were looking for a way to talk to me, suddenly the guy offers me a piece of gum. Umm, ok. Started chatting a bit and found that they drove all the way from Kushiro to Jozankei in one day, overall about 10 hours with stops they said!! Now it was about 11am, and they were about to head back the WHOLE way today! Some people just love driving. I asked if they had a day off tomorrow, they did, but wanted to spend it relaxing in their house. Before I leave, the guy ruffles around his wifes purse and finds a box of Frisk to give me as a present. By now I've definitely developed a complex, though I am sure that I brushed my teeth pretty thoroughly this morning. Anyways, nice people and a great break soaking my feet. I climbed back on and tore the return route up. It was mostly downhill so I was able to hit 45kph sometimes and see how the trailer holds on. I made it into Sapporo just when the rain started pounding me. I stopped by Road Kids to see Takashi and show him the trailer, then arrived home well before 1pm and able to rest up before picking up Mom and Sis from the airport later tonight..
Great ride.

Prep and Logistics!!

2006-07-06T07:59:00.000-07:00

I'm firing up this blog, so someday after all my tours/trips are finished off, I'll have something to show, and I'll be able to see where it started.

Where the hell did it start?... The bike? I loved riding for the same reason all kids love riding, you get out of your parents house and you can get dirty. Later on, I learned to love covering great distances on two wheels, powered only by yourself (and hopefully a tailwind)...and with that I discovered a new freedom. The freedom to pack what you need on your bike, and go. The best places to discover in the world aren't looking through the window of a car as you whiz by the "Welcome to Oregon" sign, they aren't at a roadside turnout showing you the same canyon or gorge that the other 14 bus tours are about to see as they line up behind you, the best places are found on your own power, on foot or by bike.

I've had a tendency to get attached to my wheels. I bought an old Raleigh "Infinity" back in maybe 1993 when I was 16, for $300. Big money back then when I was making $5 to pump gas from a tiger tail at Esso. Rode the living crap out of that poor thing, through water that would go over the handlebars (flooding season), and through water falls at Grizzly Creek. When it died, I went for a Specialized Rockhopper, first bike I had with a front shock. No more than 2", but only really compressed half that I figure. One tragic day on Spread Eagle Road though the Rockhopper and I got stuck in a rut and went for a massive launch upon hitting the boulder at the end. I was no worse for wear, but the Rockhoppers poor frame was crumpled, along with the rim, off to the LBS in the sky. When one door closes, another opens, and I went for a new Kona Kilauea. Sleek and fast that hardtail was, lasted from 95 through to 2000, when I passed it on to my brother, and opted for a Kona Mano Mano. The MM is still ripping today, 7000k put on it that I have recorded, and can't imagine life without my wheels now.

Fast forward a few years...I've ended up in northern Japan, dodging missiles from KJI and doing the Hokey Pokey for a living. With me came the ManoMano, commute, trails, escapes from my own tangled webs... The MM has been modified, upgraded, kept up, maintained, gadget'd out, and its still rolling. Now for the plan....

I'm going to rock around Hokkaido for most of September, at the very least, up to Rishiri and Rebun Islands. From there I'll head to Nepal by October 8th, fly to Lhasa Tibet, then from Lhasa bike 16-17 days through the mountains back to Kathmandu. Sounds exotic?.. but what a logistical nightmare. Airline fees, airlines not having rules laid out about how long I can stopover, how much coin, go earlier?.. It'll all work out in the end, and I refuse to question the validity of dropping $4000 on a dream trip to see Tibet and Nepal... that 4g wouldnt do much for me in my pocket when they bury me would it.

I also have a tendency (some call it an obsession) to make the most out of time, MY time. I thought, hell while I'm down in Nepal on Royal Thai Airways, why not stopover in Thailand again. Its been 5 years since I've been there, but I feel the need to hit up Cambodia again, and all of Vietnam. Whats maybe $900 to enjoy 3 weeks backpacking!? Need to find a place to store my bike/gear in Bangkok first and foremost though, along with determining the airlines rules. Now I know I'm getting a bit greedy, trying to cram so much in, along with determining some pretty heavy life choices for after the trip....but we only get one spin on this earth dont we? That would bring me back to Japan maybe by November 20th. If I stay, Ill need more work again (quit my job to travel). If I go, Ill just ride my wheels down the Japan Sea coastline til I get to Osaka and fly to Canada from there.

No shortage of decisions to be made...but it all starts here.